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Multi Xbox Modification Tutorial's
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Multi Xbox Modification Tutorial'sPosted:
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Status: Offline
Joined: Jun 14, 201113Year Member
Posts: 149
Reputation Power: 6
Welcome to iMakeScriptz Useful Topic's!
I take no Credit for this Tutorial
How To Make A Lagswitch
How To Make Rapid Fire Mod
How To Mod Gamerscore
How To Mod Avatar
Replacing with working video!
How To Jtag Xbox
Replacing with working video
How To Mod Gamertag
Replacing with working video
How To Flash Xbox With Laptop
How To Mod Gamertag In 3D
Replacing with working video
How To Mod Mw2 Splitscreen Using USB
replacing with working video
How To Stream Files To Your Xbox 360
How To Open Xbox 360
How To Install Leds In Controller
How to do the 12v fan mod
How to fix christmas lights on JTAG
Replacing with working video
WRITTEN TUTORIALS
Rapid Fire Mod
introXBOX 360 Rapid Fire mod
In this Instructable I will show you how to make your own Xbox 360 rapid fire controller mod. Please be aware that tampering with the controller voids the warranty of the xbox. Before you start this project be sure that you are prepared to do this because once you open the controller there is no going back.
WARNING: your controller can break if you do this wrong ( WORKS ONLY WITH WIRELESS )
This is for informational purposes only. use this to have fun. Do not use this in an xbox live ranked game because you are liable to get reported and banned for it
********* Make sure you ar comfortable with using a Soldering Iron because if any solder gets on the circuit board it could creat a short circuit which would break your controller******************
** This controller is not a working mod. This is a old broken controller that I used to show what The wires and stuff should look like. For your controller mod you need to have the one with the silver resistor thing on the front right below where themain xbox controller button is.
Step.1
WARNING: Your controller can break if you do it wrong
These are the supplies that you will need to complete your project:
1. A soldering iron
2. 22 gauge hook-up wire (at least 2 ft)
3. Solder (I had a small roll of it)
4. 1 momentary pushbutton switch
5. Hot glue gun
6. Xbox 360 wireless controller
7. Torx 8 security screwdriver
8. A drill with a drill bit that fits the size of the button.
MAKE SURE THE SCREWDRIVER IS THE CORRECT TYPE!! I ordered online because it is very difficult to find in stores. also make sure it is the kind with a small hole on the tip.
Numbers 1-5 can all be found at Radio Shack
The cost of this project is about $25 not including the controller
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Step.2
To open the controller take the torx 8 security screwdriver and unscrew all be screws. There are 7 screws to find the seventh one open the battery pack and remove the small sticker that is covering it.
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Step.3
Opening the controller II
Once you have taken out all 7 screws carefully lift the back off, when you have completed this take the grey piece off of the bottom. Follow the pictures for guidance.
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Step.4
Taking out the circuit board
Now carefully lift the circuit board from the front of the controller. Make sure that the buttons stay facing downward or else they will fall out.
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Step.5
Soldering the wire
Take a length of wire about six inches long and solder it to the second spike of three (see pictures)
*Be careful not to burn the circuit board or else it may break*
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Step.6
Soldering the second wire
Now, Take another length of wire about the same length (6 inches) and solder it to the spot indicated in the pictures.
*Be careful not to burn the circuit board or else it may break*
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Step.7
Inserting the button
Now drill a hole in the back of the controller where you want your button to be. Make sure you drill in a spot where the button can have room. Once you have drilled the hole insert the button and glue it to the controller.
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Step.8
Now that you have inserted the Momentary push button into its hole attach the two wires from before to each of the little prongs make sure that the two wires do not touch each other.
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Step.9
Close it up
Now close the controller. This should be easy and if not you may have to reposition the button or tuck in the wires. Now you are ready to play!
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In this Instructable I will show you how to make your own Xbox 360 rapid fire controller mod. Please be aware that tampering with the controller voids the warranty of the xbox. Before you start this project be sure that you are prepared to do this because once you open the controller there is no going back.
WARNING: your controller can break if you do this wrong ( WORKS ONLY WITH WIRELESS )
This is for informational purposes only. use this to have fun. Do not use this in an xbox live ranked game because you are liable to get reported and banned for it
********* Make sure you ar comfortable with using a Soldering Iron because if any solder gets on the circuit board it could creat a short circuit which would break your controller******************
** This controller is not a working mod. This is a old broken controller that I used to show what The wires and stuff should look like. For your controller mod you need to have the one with the silver resistor thing on the front right below where themain xbox controller button is.
Step.1
WARNING: Your controller can break if you do it wrong
These are the supplies that you will need to complete your project:
1. A soldering iron
2. 22 gauge hook-up wire (at least 2 ft)
3. Solder (I had a small roll of it)
4. 1 momentary pushbutton switch
5. Hot glue gun
6. Xbox 360 wireless controller
7. Torx 8 security screwdriver
8. A drill with a drill bit that fits the size of the button.
MAKE SURE THE SCREWDRIVER IS THE CORRECT TYPE!! I ordered online because it is very difficult to find in stores. also make sure it is the kind with a small hole on the tip.
Numbers 1-5 can all be found at Radio Shack
The cost of this project is about $25 not including the controller
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Step.2
To open the controller take the torx 8 security screwdriver and unscrew all be screws. There are 7 screws to find the seventh one open the battery pack and remove the small sticker that is covering it.
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Step.3
Opening the controller II
Once you have taken out all 7 screws carefully lift the back off, when you have completed this take the grey piece off of the bottom. Follow the pictures for guidance.
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Step.4
Taking out the circuit board
Now carefully lift the circuit board from the front of the controller. Make sure that the buttons stay facing downward or else they will fall out.
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Step.5
Soldering the wire
Take a length of wire about six inches long and solder it to the second spike of three (see pictures)
*Be careful not to burn the circuit board or else it may break*
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Step.6
Soldering the second wire
Now, Take another length of wire about the same length (6 inches) and solder it to the spot indicated in the pictures.
*Be careful not to burn the circuit board or else it may break*
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Step.7
Inserting the button
Now drill a hole in the back of the controller where you want your button to be. Make sure you drill in a spot where the button can have room. Once you have drilled the hole insert the button and glue it to the controller.
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Step.8
Now that you have inserted the Momentary push button into its hole attach the two wires from before to each of the little prongs make sure that the two wires do not touch each other.
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Step.9
Close it up
Now close the controller. This should be easy and if not you may have to reposition the button or tuck in the wires. Now you are ready to play!
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How To Do 12V Fan MOD
Step.1
Introduction
This modification will invalidate any warranty that you may have on your xbox, if you have warranty left on your box i strongly suggest you do not attempt this or any other modification that requires opening the xbox 360 unless you are prepared to face the consequences.
The writing below is the theory on why i did this mod... it is not necessary for you to read it.
My xbox 360 was getting extremely hot and causing my games to freeze and at one point even gave me the red ring of death, so I set about trying to find a way to keep it cooler after doing some looking and probing with my vault meter. After looking at the fans in the back of the xbox i noticed that theyre listed as 12v, but when i attached my volt meter to the fan pins they are only drawing a 5v current. This is because when the xbox is relatively cool the fans are kept slow to keep the xbox quiet, and as it heats up the fan speed should increase, however this doesnt always work properly so i set about finding a 12v source to power my fans, i settled on using the dvd rom drive power cable. Well thats the background covered now to set about opening the 360.
To start with we will need some tools:
Torx screwdriver size T-10
2 small flat blade screwdrivers
Wire strippers, or sharp knife
Electrical tape
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Step.2
Removing the Case
First start by removing the faceplate, this is fairly easy, with the xbox on its side, give the base end a firm tug and the faceplate should pop free, don't be scared of pulling to hard, these things are fairly robust.
Next step is to remove the bottom and top vent covers, to do this use one of the small flat bladed screw drivers, by looking into the holes on the side of the case you should see 3 plastic tabs by pushing against these you can free the vents from the case, there are 3 plastic tabs on each side.
The Top is slightly more tricky. the front tab's are set higher so can't be accessed through the ventilation holes in the side of the case. to unclip these look at picture 3 for guide on how to get to the tabs.
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Step.3
removing the case (continued)
in image one i have circled the 7 clips that hold the back of the case together, these each need to be freed to allow the case to come apart. i will attempt to explain how i do it which i believe to be the easiest way i have discovered.
this is where the two screw drivers come into place.
if you start at the end of the box with the power connector and push a screw driver into each of these holes, you should hear a distinct clicking noise when the clip is depressed.
once these two clips have come undone use one hand to hold this end of the xbox apart using a small amount of pressure to make a gap between the two halves of the box
now push one of your screwdrivers into the middle of the fan ventialtion section, there are two clips here which come apart with very little force.
now push slightly harder with your hand that is holding the box apart, and proceed to press in the final 5 clips above the video port of the xbox each of these should make a distinct clicking noise as you work your way to the opposite end of the box.
now you have the back spread far enough so that the clips won't go back together turn the box around and unclip the large clips on the front
and remove the base section of the xbox.
Congratulations you have just completed the hardest part of this mod.
place your screw driver inbetween the black part and the plastic and pry these apart it should come off with very little effort
Step.4
you've nearly got the box apart.
I have circled six screws in red, this is where the t-10 screwdriver comes in, remove these screws from the box, once removed take hold of the box turn it over and then remove the top section.
Carefully lift the dvd drive from the box and remove both the cables from the back of the box then also remove the cables from the points where they are attached on the motherboard.
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Step.5
picture 1 is an image of the DVD-drive power connector from the xbox 360. i have circled the ground and 12v connections on it.
now i couldn't get any pictures of the next steps as my camera died so i will do my best to explain...
take the dvd-drive power connector, take the two wires that would connect to these two points on the motherboard and strip them half way down, it is important that the original connections remain intact so when stripping try not to break the cable.
from these bare pieces of wire attach a short length of wire to each then wrap the bare wire in insulation tape to prevent any shorts.
you should now have two pieces of wire coming from your dvd drive cable. these need to be attached to the fan inside the xbox, the fan wiring is like this.
red + brown need to be attached to +12v
blue and black need to be attached to Ground
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Step.6
reconnect the dvd power and sata cables to the motherboard
reconnect the cables to the dvd-drive
replace top of the case, flip over and re-insert the six screws,
place on the bottom panel clipping it together at the front first then at the back
replace top and bottom vent covers.
replace face plate.
your 12v mod is now complete.
turn on your xbox and let it run cool
Introduction
This modification will invalidate any warranty that you may have on your xbox, if you have warranty left on your box i strongly suggest you do not attempt this or any other modification that requires opening the xbox 360 unless you are prepared to face the consequences.
The writing below is the theory on why i did this mod... it is not necessary for you to read it.
My xbox 360 was getting extremely hot and causing my games to freeze and at one point even gave me the red ring of death, so I set about trying to find a way to keep it cooler after doing some looking and probing with my vault meter. After looking at the fans in the back of the xbox i noticed that theyre listed as 12v, but when i attached my volt meter to the fan pins they are only drawing a 5v current. This is because when the xbox is relatively cool the fans are kept slow to keep the xbox quiet, and as it heats up the fan speed should increase, however this doesnt always work properly so i set about finding a 12v source to power my fans, i settled on using the dvd rom drive power cable. Well thats the background covered now to set about opening the 360.
To start with we will need some tools:
Torx screwdriver size T-10
2 small flat blade screwdrivers
Wire strippers, or sharp knife
Electrical tape
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Step.2
Removing the Case
First start by removing the faceplate, this is fairly easy, with the xbox on its side, give the base end a firm tug and the faceplate should pop free, don't be scared of pulling to hard, these things are fairly robust.
Next step is to remove the bottom and top vent covers, to do this use one of the small flat bladed screw drivers, by looking into the holes on the side of the case you should see 3 plastic tabs by pushing against these you can free the vents from the case, there are 3 plastic tabs on each side.
The Top is slightly more tricky. the front tab's are set higher so can't be accessed through the ventilation holes in the side of the case. to unclip these look at picture 3 for guide on how to get to the tabs.
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Step.3
removing the case (continued)
in image one i have circled the 7 clips that hold the back of the case together, these each need to be freed to allow the case to come apart. i will attempt to explain how i do it which i believe to be the easiest way i have discovered.
this is where the two screw drivers come into place.
if you start at the end of the box with the power connector and push a screw driver into each of these holes, you should hear a distinct clicking noise when the clip is depressed.
once these two clips have come undone use one hand to hold this end of the xbox apart using a small amount of pressure to make a gap between the two halves of the box
now push one of your screwdrivers into the middle of the fan ventialtion section, there are two clips here which come apart with very little force.
now push slightly harder with your hand that is holding the box apart, and proceed to press in the final 5 clips above the video port of the xbox each of these should make a distinct clicking noise as you work your way to the opposite end of the box.
now you have the back spread far enough so that the clips won't go back together turn the box around and unclip the large clips on the front
and remove the base section of the xbox.
Congratulations you have just completed the hardest part of this mod.
place your screw driver inbetween the black part and the plastic and pry these apart it should come off with very little effort
Step.4
you've nearly got the box apart.
I have circled six screws in red, this is where the t-10 screwdriver comes in, remove these screws from the box, once removed take hold of the box turn it over and then remove the top section.
Carefully lift the dvd drive from the box and remove both the cables from the back of the box then also remove the cables from the points where they are attached on the motherboard.
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Step.5
picture 1 is an image of the DVD-drive power connector from the xbox 360. i have circled the ground and 12v connections on it.
now i couldn't get any pictures of the next steps as my camera died so i will do my best to explain...
take the dvd-drive power connector, take the two wires that would connect to these two points on the motherboard and strip them half way down, it is important that the original connections remain intact so when stripping try not to break the cable.
from these bare pieces of wire attach a short length of wire to each then wrap the bare wire in insulation tape to prevent any shorts.
you should now have two pieces of wire coming from your dvd drive cable. these need to be attached to the fan inside the xbox, the fan wiring is like this.
red + brown need to be attached to +12v
blue and black need to be attached to Ground
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Step.6
reconnect the dvd power and sata cables to the motherboard
reconnect the cables to the dvd-drive
replace top of the case, flip over and re-insert the six screws,
place on the bottom panel clipping it together at the front first then at the back
replace top and bottom vent covers.
replace face plate.
your 12v mod is now complete.
turn on your xbox and let it run cool
How to Jtag xbox
Step.1
Finding out if your Xbox is exploitable
Your kernel must be kernel 2.0.7371.0 or lower for this to work. You can do this by opening up the system info tab. After there is one more step to check if it still is exploitable, but you have to build your cable to dump your nand first.
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Step.2
Tools
Soldering iron
Solder
Computer with LPT port.
Parts
1x 25 pin d-sub connector (male or female depending on which kind of cable you have)
Digikey # 225FE-ND
1x 25 pin d-sub cable (lpt cable) You can actually skip the cable if you buy a male connector and make your wires long enough to extend from your xbox to the computer
Digikey # AE9863-ND
3x 330 ohm resistors (only for Xenon motherboards)
Digikey # P330BBCT-ND
1x 1n4148 switching diode (if you have Zephyr, Falcon, Opus or a Jasper get 3x of these)
Refer to the image below to tell what kind of 360 you have.
There has been a new update to the standard wiring you should use for the JTAG wiring on Xenon's which requires just 2x 1n4148 diodes. I've never used this method before so I can't really help as much if you have problems. But I would suggest going with it instead since it is supposed to be electrically superior and uses less parts so less room for failure I guess.
[img]http://www.instructables.com/file/FDV815EG5KP9O1Y/?size=MEDIUM[/img]
Step.3
Soldering the cable
Soldering is generally pretty straight forward. You actually don't need any solder for the motherboard end, as the holes all have solder in them. So you just need need to heat it up and slide the wire through. I suggest using at least a 30w iron as a 15w will have trouble getting the lead free solder hot enough. All resistors on the connector are optional, it's just to prevent damage as some ports are 5v and the motherboard is 3.3v.
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Step.4
Dumping the nand
Download the files here (I forgot to include nandpro get that here )
Extract the rar, and open up the nandpro folder
install port95nt.exe (if running vista or 7 set it for compatibility mode for xp.)
Plug your Xbox 360 in, but don't power it on.
Plug the lpt cable in
Pop open cmd and change directories to your nandpro folder
type nandpro lpt: -r16 nand.bin
It will start to dump, this will take 35 minutes
Type nandpro lpt: -r16 nand2.bin and dump it a second time.
If during the dump it has trouble reading blocks, don't worry. You only have a problem if can't read block after block, which means something went wrong in the middle of the dump and you have to restart it again.
If you are having issues having nandpro detecting it, go over and double check all of your soldering. If you skipped out on the diode, try adding one, and just restarting your computer has fixed the issue quite a few times for me. You also want to make sure your cable is short as possible.
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Step.5
Testing if it's exploitable
You're going to want to open up degraded included in the file pack. Go to settings and under 1BL key make sure it says DD88AD0C9ED669E7B56794FB68563EFA and is checked. You are also going to want to change file system start to 39.
Open up your nand dump and look at the CB version
If your CB is the following you're in luck!
Xenon: 888, 1902, 1903, 1920,1921, 8192
Zephyr: 4558, 4580
Falcon: 5761, 5766, 5770
Jasper: 6712, 6723
Jasper Arcade (256/512): 6723 or lower is Exploitable
If you are unsure if yours is exploitable, you can also check if CD = 8453, if it does you're out of luck.
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Step.6
Extracting the keyvault, injecting and flashing XBR
Select the proper XBR for your motherboard included in the rar file and put it in your nandpro folder. Rename it to xbr.bin to make things easier.
Open up cmd, navigate to your nandpro folder and type
nandpro nand.bin: -r16 kv.bin 1 1
nandpro nand.bin: -r16 config.bin 3de 2
Then typenandpro xbr.bin: -w16 kv.bin 1 1
nandpro xbr.bin: -w16 config.bin 3de 2
Now for the flashing!
Just type and wait 35 minutes
nandpro lpt: -w16 xbr.bin
Step.7
Getting your CPU key
Reassemble your 360, and boot your 360 with the DVD drive ejected. Or if you don't have a DVD drive you can plug in a wired controller into the back usb port.
You should see a blue screen pop up and whole bunch of things fly by. When it says CPU fuses, your either going to want to write really fast or snap a picture.
fuseset 3 and 5 or 4 and 6 is your cpu key.
So if it said
fuseset 03: xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
fuseset 05: yyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy
My CPU key would be xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy
It should 32 characters.
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Step.8
Extras
I included quite a few extra programs in the .rar file. A lot of them will come in handy with your Xbox 360 homebrew experience. I'll be going over what each program is good for.
360 Flash Tool
This tool allows you to view all the files in your nand and your keyvault. You need your CPU key for this.
KeyVault Modder
This allows you to modify the region code, or what your DVD drive key is. If your Xbox 360 DVD drive is missing or you burned yours out, this is the tool you need to recover it! You can either change the key to someone simple as just 1's or what it originally was.
X360GameHack
Since you can run any code now, you can patch .xex game files. With this tool you can remove region coding from games and many other things.
XBLA Unlocker
This will allow you to unlock any DLC, or XBLA games you may have that are demos and that are signed to a certain console. You can download game demos on the Xbox marketplace and unlock it with this tool.
Xbox Image Browser
This tool allows you to view the content of an Xbox 360 Iso image. What I use this tool for is extracting the files from the iso then putting them on my xbox instead of the iso. Xbox 360 iso's are zeroed out to 7 gb or so no matter how big the game is. A game with 1gb of files could be wasting 6gb of space.
YarisSwap
This program allows you to modify the console ID on DLC, and XBLA games to run on any console.
Xbins
This is a xbins autoconnect tool. Use this to download the latest files.
Freestyle Dash
This is my favorite Xbox 360 custom dashboard. It includes DVD ripping and FTP support. It is one of the most progressing dashboards that is constantly being updated with new features.
Quickboot
This tool creates containers from xex files that can be launched from the dashboard.
Xexloader
This allows you to navigate your hdd on your xbox and launch .xex files directly. It also has an ftp server running in the background also. I included 2 versions, one is the ISO which you just burn to a CD and put in your xbox, the other is a XBLA file that you put in your content folder on your hard drive and launch.
Step.9
Installing a 3.5 in desktop HDD
This requires you to cut the end off a sata cable and solder it under the HDD connector.
Wiring goes as follows
Pin 1: SATA Signal GND
Pin 2: SATA Signal A+
Pin 3: SATA Signal A-
Pin 4: SATA Signal GND
Pin 5: SATA Signal B+
Pin 6: SATA Signal B-
Pin 7: SATA Signal GND
The side of the sate cable with the writing goes up, and you start left from right. You only have to solder the white shielded cables inside as these are the data cables. Just wire the rest of the ground wires some where else.
Where to get my 12v?
There are many spots on the Xbox motherboard where you can get 12v of power from, I picked the power connector on the bottom of the board as I'm not soldering onto any other connectors or anything.
How to wire up the sata power connector
Yellow: 12v
Red: 5v
Black: GND
Hard drives have been tested up to 2tb and worked successfully.
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Step.10
My avatar is only a silhouette!
Usually your avatar will be a blank silhouette and it will tell you, you need to install an update to use them. All you need to do is download this update file, and place it on a USB flash drive, and plug it into the back usb port of your xbox. Your 360 should detect it and install it. Make sure you extract it first and the root of the drive is the $SystemUpdate folder. You can also burn it to a CD to update.
If you're paranoid you will brick your console because microsoft is out to get you and ruin your homebrew, you can look at the picture about removing the r6t3 resistor to keep from having your fuses blown.
I also provided a mediafire mirror in case the microsoft one goes down.
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[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Finding out if your Xbox is exploitable
Your kernel must be kernel 2.0.7371.0 or lower for this to work. You can do this by opening up the system info tab. After there is one more step to check if it still is exploitable, but you have to build your cable to dump your nand first.
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Step.2
Tools
Soldering iron
Solder
Computer with LPT port.
Parts
1x 25 pin d-sub connector (male or female depending on which kind of cable you have)
Digikey # 225FE-ND
1x 25 pin d-sub cable (lpt cable) You can actually skip the cable if you buy a male connector and make your wires long enough to extend from your xbox to the computer
Digikey # AE9863-ND
3x 330 ohm resistors (only for Xenon motherboards)
Digikey # P330BBCT-ND
1x 1n4148 switching diode (if you have Zephyr, Falcon, Opus or a Jasper get 3x of these)
Refer to the image below to tell what kind of 360 you have.
There has been a new update to the standard wiring you should use for the JTAG wiring on Xenon's which requires just 2x 1n4148 diodes. I've never used this method before so I can't really help as much if you have problems. But I would suggest going with it instead since it is supposed to be electrically superior and uses less parts so less room for failure I guess.
[img]http://www.instructables.com/file/FDV815EG5KP9O1Y/?size=MEDIUM[/img]
Step.3
Soldering the cable
Soldering is generally pretty straight forward. You actually don't need any solder for the motherboard end, as the holes all have solder in them. So you just need need to heat it up and slide the wire through. I suggest using at least a 30w iron as a 15w will have trouble getting the lead free solder hot enough. All resistors on the connector are optional, it's just to prevent damage as some ports are 5v and the motherboard is 3.3v.
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Step.4
Dumping the nand
Download the files here (I forgot to include nandpro get that here )
Extract the rar, and open up the nandpro folder
install port95nt.exe (if running vista or 7 set it for compatibility mode for xp.)
Plug your Xbox 360 in, but don't power it on.
Plug the lpt cable in
Pop open cmd and change directories to your nandpro folder
type nandpro lpt: -r16 nand.bin
It will start to dump, this will take 35 minutes
Type nandpro lpt: -r16 nand2.bin and dump it a second time.
If during the dump it has trouble reading blocks, don't worry. You only have a problem if can't read block after block, which means something went wrong in the middle of the dump and you have to restart it again.
If you are having issues having nandpro detecting it, go over and double check all of your soldering. If you skipped out on the diode, try adding one, and just restarting your computer has fixed the issue quite a few times for me. You also want to make sure your cable is short as possible.
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Step.5
Testing if it's exploitable
You're going to want to open up degraded included in the file pack. Go to settings and under 1BL key make sure it says DD88AD0C9ED669E7B56794FB68563EFA and is checked. You are also going to want to change file system start to 39.
Open up your nand dump and look at the CB version
If your CB is the following you're in luck!
Xenon: 888, 1902, 1903, 1920,1921, 8192
Zephyr: 4558, 4580
Falcon: 5761, 5766, 5770
Jasper: 6712, 6723
Jasper Arcade (256/512): 6723 or lower is Exploitable
If you are unsure if yours is exploitable, you can also check if CD = 8453, if it does you're out of luck.
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Step.6
Extracting the keyvault, injecting and flashing XBR
Select the proper XBR for your motherboard included in the rar file and put it in your nandpro folder. Rename it to xbr.bin to make things easier.
Open up cmd, navigate to your nandpro folder and type
nandpro nand.bin: -r16 kv.bin 1 1
nandpro nand.bin: -r16 config.bin 3de 2
Then typenandpro xbr.bin: -w16 kv.bin 1 1
nandpro xbr.bin: -w16 config.bin 3de 2
Now for the flashing!
Just type and wait 35 minutes
nandpro lpt: -w16 xbr.bin
Step.7
Getting your CPU key
Reassemble your 360, and boot your 360 with the DVD drive ejected. Or if you don't have a DVD drive you can plug in a wired controller into the back usb port.
You should see a blue screen pop up and whole bunch of things fly by. When it says CPU fuses, your either going to want to write really fast or snap a picture.
fuseset 3 and 5 or 4 and 6 is your cpu key.
So if it said
fuseset 03: xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
fuseset 05: yyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy
My CPU key would be xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy
It should 32 characters.
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Step.8
Extras
I included quite a few extra programs in the .rar file. A lot of them will come in handy with your Xbox 360 homebrew experience. I'll be going over what each program is good for.
360 Flash Tool
This tool allows you to view all the files in your nand and your keyvault. You need your CPU key for this.
KeyVault Modder
This allows you to modify the region code, or what your DVD drive key is. If your Xbox 360 DVD drive is missing or you burned yours out, this is the tool you need to recover it! You can either change the key to someone simple as just 1's or what it originally was.
X360GameHack
Since you can run any code now, you can patch .xex game files. With this tool you can remove region coding from games and many other things.
XBLA Unlocker
This will allow you to unlock any DLC, or XBLA games you may have that are demos and that are signed to a certain console. You can download game demos on the Xbox marketplace and unlock it with this tool.
Xbox Image Browser
This tool allows you to view the content of an Xbox 360 Iso image. What I use this tool for is extracting the files from the iso then putting them on my xbox instead of the iso. Xbox 360 iso's are zeroed out to 7 gb or so no matter how big the game is. A game with 1gb of files could be wasting 6gb of space.
YarisSwap
This program allows you to modify the console ID on DLC, and XBLA games to run on any console.
Xbins
This is a xbins autoconnect tool. Use this to download the latest files.
Freestyle Dash
This is my favorite Xbox 360 custom dashboard. It includes DVD ripping and FTP support. It is one of the most progressing dashboards that is constantly being updated with new features.
Quickboot
This tool creates containers from xex files that can be launched from the dashboard.
Xexloader
This allows you to navigate your hdd on your xbox and launch .xex files directly. It also has an ftp server running in the background also. I included 2 versions, one is the ISO which you just burn to a CD and put in your xbox, the other is a XBLA file that you put in your content folder on your hard drive and launch.
Step.9
Installing a 3.5 in desktop HDD
This requires you to cut the end off a sata cable and solder it under the HDD connector.
Wiring goes as follows
Pin 1: SATA Signal GND
Pin 2: SATA Signal A+
Pin 3: SATA Signal A-
Pin 4: SATA Signal GND
Pin 5: SATA Signal B+
Pin 6: SATA Signal B-
Pin 7: SATA Signal GND
The side of the sate cable with the writing goes up, and you start left from right. You only have to solder the white shielded cables inside as these are the data cables. Just wire the rest of the ground wires some where else.
Where to get my 12v?
There are many spots on the Xbox motherboard where you can get 12v of power from, I picked the power connector on the bottom of the board as I'm not soldering onto any other connectors or anything.
How to wire up the sata power connector
Yellow: 12v
Red: 5v
Black: GND
Hard drives have been tested up to 2tb and worked successfully.
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Step.10
My avatar is only a silhouette!
Usually your avatar will be a blank silhouette and it will tell you, you need to install an update to use them. All you need to do is download this update file, and place it on a USB flash drive, and plug it into the back usb port of your xbox. Your 360 should detect it and install it. Make sure you extract it first and the root of the drive is the $SystemUpdate folder. You can also burn it to a CD to update.
If you're paranoid you will brick your console because microsoft is out to get you and ruin your homebrew, you can look at the picture about removing the r6t3 resistor to keep from having your fuses blown.
I also provided a mediafire mirror in case the microsoft one goes down.
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How To Put LEDS In 360
intro
Xbox 360 Ring of Light LEDs
Change the color of your Xbox 360 ring of light from dull green to any mix of colors you can imagine. Having a modified ring of light is a beautiful and fun mod to create, and will impress any guests who view your Xbox 360.
This guide requires being comfortable with soldering, and the disassembly of your Xbox 360. The LEDs used are very small (about the size of a few grains of salt) and though this instructable does not require absolutely steady hands, it does demand patience. You will be operating on a $300 piece of hardware, and though it is highly unlikely you will break your Xbox 360, is it possible to irreparably damage the LED solder points on your wireless board making that light inoperable.
*** I claim no liability for any damages or injuries that occur while following these instructions. Attempting this mod will void your Xbox 360s warranty, and you can sustain injury through the use of lead-based solder inhalation and an extremely hot soldering iron. ***
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Step.1
Parts Needed
This is a listing of the parts required to accomplish this case mod. This is a simple list of easily accessible parts.
Soldering Iron ($10) - These can be purchased at many hobby stores, I used a 15 watt model from Radioshack.
Solder ($4) - I recommend Silver Rosin Core Solder, the silver helps create a strong joint and the rosin eases the flow of solder between components. A smaller diameter works better for this project (.020 - .026).
Copper Soldering Braid ($3) - Used to remove excess solder. This is necessary for cleaning the terminals where the old LEDs were on the wireless board. You put it over the excess solder, apply your soldering iron to the braid, and the excess is absorbed into the braid.
Tweezers ($3) - These are absolutely necessary to do this project. They will hold the SMD LEDs, align them in the proper direction, and make it possible to solder the LED without it blowing away or tipping over. Purchase the flattest tweezer tips you can, if they are round the LED will just shoot off.
Xbox 360 Wireless Board (Cost of an Xbox 360) - Comes with any Xbox 360, contains the Player 1-4 LEDs, power LED, and wireless antenna.
Support/Holder - I used a thumbtack box, you can use whatever object suits your needs. A suitable holder should be about 1-2 inches off of the ground, and be able to keep your wireless board flat and immobile. Other objects can be small bowels, cups - whatever your can find.
0603 SMD LEDs (~$ 0.30 per LED) - Choose whatever colors you wish, I selected a different color for each LED to match my controllers. No matter how careful or skilled you are, you will waste/lose many LEDs so be sure to purchase extras. The brighter the LEDs the better, the difference between a 150mcd brightness $0.22 and a 500mcd $0.37 LED is worth the extra cost.
***Purchasing 0603 SMD LEDs***
It can be hard to purchase individual quantities of these LEDs at low prices. My favorite retailer is Unique LEDs. They have a very wide selection of difficult to find LEDs at excellent prices.
Having your Xbox 360 vertically or horizontally oriented makes a difference. When turned vertical the four player LEDs are rotated one to the left, keep this in mind if you want to modify your controller LEDs as well, as they use the same SMD 0603 LEDs and the orientation can become mismatched.
For the specific LEDs I purchased, each color is:
800mcd White - Power Button
500mcd Red - Player 1
380mcd Blue - Player 2
130mcd Amber (Yellow) - Player 3
200mcd Pure Green - Player 4
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Step.2
Dissasemble xbox
Step.3
Overview
Having the necessary knowledge can make this install go much more smoothly without as many mistakes.
Microsoft LEDs
The Xbox 360 LEDs are different from the ones that we are using. They are capable of producing two colors - red and green, which are used to display error messages along with player numbers. Each LED shares the same positive located on the counter-clockwise end. This instructable is tasked with soldering to only the positive and green negative terminals.
Positive/Negative Orientation
In the picture below, green negatives are more counter-clockwise and red negatives are more clockwise. There have been many different revisions to the wireless board, constantly changing the direction of the red and green negative terminals. Newer Xbox 360s have the layout shown in the picture below, while older 360s may have different orientations for each terminal (such as only player 2 has green and red switched).
Body Positioning
As the pieces we are working with are so small, shaky fingers can make this a frustrating task, which by itself makes the job impossible. I suggest laying down on your chest to to handle and solder the pieces. Getting too excited, running around, or becoming angry at the process will increase your heart rate and adrenaline, and make it much harder to complete this project. If you need to, feel free to take a 5 minute break to calm down and do the job correctly.
Either way, the SMD LEDs we will install will be facing towards the center on their side (for players 1-4 the LED is sideways, the power LED however points straight up). Installing the 0603 SMD LEDs sideways makes them brighter since the light is being emitted directly into the diffusion clip's (white clip) lenses.
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Step.4
Removing Existing LEDs
This is the most dangerous part of the install. Impatience in removing the already present LEDs can result in the LED being torn off the board along with its terminals.
Floating
Microsoft used a small amount of solder to connect the LEDs to the wireless board. In order for us to remove the LEDs, we must add extra solder to each of the three LED terminals. Simply touch your soldering iron to each terminal and add your soldering coil to bathe the terminals in solder.
Tapping the Terminals
Once the LEDs have been floated, you must have all three terminals molten at the same time, after which the LED should just float off of the board. Tap the soldering iron back and forth between the three terminals, and the LED should be pushed off the board without requiring any extra effort from you. If you push with too much horizontal force on the LED instead of letting the LED fall off on its own, the LED can tear off its solder terminals from the wireless board, making it extremely difficult to make that LED location functional again.
Cleanup with the Soldering Braid
After you have removed the preexisting Microsoft two-color LED, remove the solder present on the three terminals. Take your soldering braid and rest it on top of the terminals. Push your soldering iron downward towards the wireless board and the solder will absorb into the braid. You should end up with three relatively clean and flat terminals.
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Step.5
Attaching SMD 0603 LED
These LEDs are very small, and it can be hard to tell which end is the positive or negative. on the bottom of each LED there is usually a green or gold symbol pointing to the negative leg. See the pictures below for some examples.
Tin the Iron
Since you only have two hands, it would be hard to use a soldering iron, solder, and tweezers at the same time. So first we will tin the soldering iron. Apply a decent amount of solder to the iron, enough so that if you touch the iron to the LED itself (no external solder added) solder would stick to the LED.
Grabbing the LED
Use your tweezers to flip your SMD around until you have the negative side pointing in the proper direction. You will then flip it on its side, grab it with your tweezers (you should be pinching the top and bottom parts respective to the LED) and place it over your wireless board.
Soldering the Terminal
While holding the LED sideways over its terminal points, (The direction marker pointing to the green negative terminal), touch your tinned soldering iron to the LED and terminal on the wireless board, and it should hold in place. Now solder the positive end of the LED to the other terminal. Make sure there are no short-circuits where solder has connected multiple terminals together.
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Step.6
Test and Repeat
After you have soldered in your LED, plug the wireless board back into the Xbox 360 to test if the light works. You must have the video cable plugged into your Xbox 360 in order to get the four player LEDs to light up (Otherwise it is only showing the red/error LEDs that the video cable is not plugged in, which would not be lit for us).
If it worked, excellent, you may continue on to doing the other four. If not, make sure that solder is not connecting any terminals together (such as green negative to red negative). Also make sure that your orientation is correct, and the positive is in fact connected to the positive terminal.
Repeat this process for all the LEDs, and you should have a brand new ring of light. Put the Xbox 360 back together and enjoy!
image not found
The first soldered LED works, success!QuackMasterDani
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15 comments Add Comment
.Dec 17, 2009. 4:36 PMwil0016 says:
hay im doing this today and was wondering does it matter what the mcd is in the LED cause if i use a 600mcd red LED insted of the 500 mcd in your decription does it matter or its just gonna be brighter????
thanks mate
REPLY.
9Dec 17, 2009. 10:45 PMQuackMasterDan (author) says:
Get as high of a mcd rating you can. A 600mcd LED will be slightly brighter than a 500mcd LED. Go for it, and if you can get an 800 if you can find one.
REPLY.Dec 10, 2009. 9:46 AMStanvdmeer says:
If you still find it hard to see where you have to solder exactly (, like i did), this tutorial may help you! [ Register or Signin to view external links. ] I find it a little clearer than this one, because the tut from mmmonkey is better to understand if you don't know where to solder, what the positive and negatives are, etc.
But still a great tutorial dude!
REPLY.
9Dec 10, 2009. 6:08 PMQuackMasterDan (author) says:
I'm not criticizing that guide, but how is it any more clear? The pictures are almost exact duplicates of the positives and negatives and LED orientation. If anything, mmmonkey has less pictures and notes than this one, they have the exact same information.
REPLY.Dec 11, 2009. 10:53 AMStanvdmeer says:
I think it is just a good replenishment to your tut, because the guy also explaines about the red ERROR LEDs 'n stuff. I don't say it's better than yours, but I found a combination of yours and that one clearer. REPLY.
9Dec 11, 2009. 11:46 AMQuackMasterDan (author) says:
Well thanks for the link as a complement guide. If a user really wants error LED patterns without having to install two LEDs for each corner, you can just bridge the negative connections for both green and red. Lets say you were to get a RRoD, lights 1,3, and 4 would be lit the color of your LED choices, and would be easy to tell as long as no controllers are plugged in. If the system is working properly, just powering up with the video cable plugged in will leave no corners lit, any errors would just show up anyways, albeit not red.
REPLY.Jun 25, 2009. 10:23 PMstikman says:
With the original LED's removed and no LED installed for an error light, how would you know which error has occured without knowing how many lights are flashing?REPLY.
9Jul 2, 2009. 12:45 AMQuackMasterDan (author) says:
Two solutions, the easier one is to simply not know what error is going on via the blinking lights. The 360s are pretty solid systems, except for the red ring of death which can be alleviated by either replacing the internal fans (preventative only) or installing the x-clamp heatsink fix (preventative and a possible fix). If you still want to know the error codes, purchase some red LEDs as well, and also solder them on, only for the other terminal. I'd suggest using a small u-shaped chunk of wire to connect them, and it's a trickier install.REPLY.Apr 28, 2009. 9:51 PMtj the gnome says:
and then you run it on carpet... CHERISH THOSE THINGS!!REPLY.
9Apr 28, 2009. 10:36 PMQuackMasterDan (author) says:
The carpet is only for the pictures, all of my video games are elevated 2 feet above the floor on a wood table. I'm aware of the damage a non-ventilated space and heavy dust can cause, I take care of my systems.REPLY.Jun 1, 2009. 9:43 AMtj the gnome says:
ohh well that's good. i was gonna say, anyone who has the electronic prowess to do this should know why NOT to run an xbox on carpet.REPLY.May 26, 2009. 3:05 AMNissanine says:
i has a question, do u hav to remove the whole casing of the exbox or just the facyplate?REPLY.Nov 23, 2008. 7:54 AMjam3s08 says:
Hey Great Guide. I was just wanderin though do u do it the same way for the controller if so wat size/volt are the LEDs cuz i dont wanna try it on my xbox yet. Thanx. Just send a comment or even better send an email 2 jameshenry101 @ hotmail.co.uk. thanxREPLY.
9Nov 23, 2008. 12:06 PMQuackMasterDan (author) says:
All Xbox 360s use the same voltage for SMD 0603 LEDs, any 0603 LED is going to light up the wireless board or a controller. The only difference between putting the lights on the controller is the polarity (Direction the LED is facing) is different. The size is very small, about the size of a few grains of salt, you will need tweezers to hold them accurately.REPLY.Nov 17, 2008. 7:34 AMOrion370 says:
My God Man... That is awesome. I think once my warranty runs out Im gonna do this. Id rather let M$ Pay for my repairs while I can :DREPLY.
9Nov 17, 2008. 8:25 AMQuackMasterDan (author) says:
I'm glad that you like the mod, in conjunction with doing the same lights on my controllers its worth voiding the warranty (in my opinion). On November 15th of 2008 (2 days ago) the 3-year Microsoft warranty for the initial launch Xbox 360s just expired, convieniently four days before the Xbox 360 Dashboard update (which always causes a number of 360s to break).REPLY.Nov 17, 2008. 5:16 PMOrion370 says:
How did you go about putting the cold cathodes into your xbox? Those look pretty sweet also. Is there a website that would show or is there another instructable? Worst comes to worst, I just put some LEDs in there I suppose. Great Job though. Def keep up the good work, and my warranty runs out soon enough. July 09. I think Im gonna try on a dead xbox's wireless board first. REPLY.
9Nov 17, 2008. 6:09 PMQuackMasterDan (author) says:
I have taken all of the photos on how to install cold cathodes into a 360. I need some spare time to create the instructable and publish it. If you can wait two-four weeks I'll have it uploaded for you to follow.
If you need help now, in my disassembly guide I have a picture of the 12volt supply on the bottom of the motherboard somewhere in there. Cold cathode positive gets soldered to the 12 volt supply, and the tubes are removed from their acrylic shell and hot glued into place.
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Xbox 360 Ring of Light LEDs
Change the color of your Xbox 360 ring of light from dull green to any mix of colors you can imagine. Having a modified ring of light is a beautiful and fun mod to create, and will impress any guests who view your Xbox 360.
This guide requires being comfortable with soldering, and the disassembly of your Xbox 360. The LEDs used are very small (about the size of a few grains of salt) and though this instructable does not require absolutely steady hands, it does demand patience. You will be operating on a $300 piece of hardware, and though it is highly unlikely you will break your Xbox 360, is it possible to irreparably damage the LED solder points on your wireless board making that light inoperable.
*** I claim no liability for any damages or injuries that occur while following these instructions. Attempting this mod will void your Xbox 360s warranty, and you can sustain injury through the use of lead-based solder inhalation and an extremely hot soldering iron. ***
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Step.1
Parts Needed
This is a listing of the parts required to accomplish this case mod. This is a simple list of easily accessible parts.
Soldering Iron ($10) - These can be purchased at many hobby stores, I used a 15 watt model from Radioshack.
Solder ($4) - I recommend Silver Rosin Core Solder, the silver helps create a strong joint and the rosin eases the flow of solder between components. A smaller diameter works better for this project (.020 - .026).
Copper Soldering Braid ($3) - Used to remove excess solder. This is necessary for cleaning the terminals where the old LEDs were on the wireless board. You put it over the excess solder, apply your soldering iron to the braid, and the excess is absorbed into the braid.
Tweezers ($3) - These are absolutely necessary to do this project. They will hold the SMD LEDs, align them in the proper direction, and make it possible to solder the LED without it blowing away or tipping over. Purchase the flattest tweezer tips you can, if they are round the LED will just shoot off.
Xbox 360 Wireless Board (Cost of an Xbox 360) - Comes with any Xbox 360, contains the Player 1-4 LEDs, power LED, and wireless antenna.
Support/Holder - I used a thumbtack box, you can use whatever object suits your needs. A suitable holder should be about 1-2 inches off of the ground, and be able to keep your wireless board flat and immobile. Other objects can be small bowels, cups - whatever your can find.
0603 SMD LEDs (~$ 0.30 per LED) - Choose whatever colors you wish, I selected a different color for each LED to match my controllers. No matter how careful or skilled you are, you will waste/lose many LEDs so be sure to purchase extras. The brighter the LEDs the better, the difference between a 150mcd brightness $0.22 and a 500mcd $0.37 LED is worth the extra cost.
***Purchasing 0603 SMD LEDs***
It can be hard to purchase individual quantities of these LEDs at low prices. My favorite retailer is Unique LEDs. They have a very wide selection of difficult to find LEDs at excellent prices.
Having your Xbox 360 vertically or horizontally oriented makes a difference. When turned vertical the four player LEDs are rotated one to the left, keep this in mind if you want to modify your controller LEDs as well, as they use the same SMD 0603 LEDs and the orientation can become mismatched.
For the specific LEDs I purchased, each color is:
800mcd White - Power Button
500mcd Red - Player 1
380mcd Blue - Player 2
130mcd Amber (Yellow) - Player 3
200mcd Pure Green - Player 4
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Step.2
Dissasemble xbox
Step.3
Overview
Having the necessary knowledge can make this install go much more smoothly without as many mistakes.
Microsoft LEDs
The Xbox 360 LEDs are different from the ones that we are using. They are capable of producing two colors - red and green, which are used to display error messages along with player numbers. Each LED shares the same positive located on the counter-clockwise end. This instructable is tasked with soldering to only the positive and green negative terminals.
Positive/Negative Orientation
In the picture below, green negatives are more counter-clockwise and red negatives are more clockwise. There have been many different revisions to the wireless board, constantly changing the direction of the red and green negative terminals. Newer Xbox 360s have the layout shown in the picture below, while older 360s may have different orientations for each terminal (such as only player 2 has green and red switched).
Body Positioning
As the pieces we are working with are so small, shaky fingers can make this a frustrating task, which by itself makes the job impossible. I suggest laying down on your chest to to handle and solder the pieces. Getting too excited, running around, or becoming angry at the process will increase your heart rate and adrenaline, and make it much harder to complete this project. If you need to, feel free to take a 5 minute break to calm down and do the job correctly.
Either way, the SMD LEDs we will install will be facing towards the center on their side (for players 1-4 the LED is sideways, the power LED however points straight up). Installing the 0603 SMD LEDs sideways makes them brighter since the light is being emitted directly into the diffusion clip's (white clip) lenses.
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Step.4
Removing Existing LEDs
This is the most dangerous part of the install. Impatience in removing the already present LEDs can result in the LED being torn off the board along with its terminals.
Floating
Microsoft used a small amount of solder to connect the LEDs to the wireless board. In order for us to remove the LEDs, we must add extra solder to each of the three LED terminals. Simply touch your soldering iron to each terminal and add your soldering coil to bathe the terminals in solder.
Tapping the Terminals
Once the LEDs have been floated, you must have all three terminals molten at the same time, after which the LED should just float off of the board. Tap the soldering iron back and forth between the three terminals, and the LED should be pushed off the board without requiring any extra effort from you. If you push with too much horizontal force on the LED instead of letting the LED fall off on its own, the LED can tear off its solder terminals from the wireless board, making it extremely difficult to make that LED location functional again.
Cleanup with the Soldering Braid
After you have removed the preexisting Microsoft two-color LED, remove the solder present on the three terminals. Take your soldering braid and rest it on top of the terminals. Push your soldering iron downward towards the wireless board and the solder will absorb into the braid. You should end up with three relatively clean and flat terminals.
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Step.5
Attaching SMD 0603 LED
These LEDs are very small, and it can be hard to tell which end is the positive or negative. on the bottom of each LED there is usually a green or gold symbol pointing to the negative leg. See the pictures below for some examples.
Tin the Iron
Since you only have two hands, it would be hard to use a soldering iron, solder, and tweezers at the same time. So first we will tin the soldering iron. Apply a decent amount of solder to the iron, enough so that if you touch the iron to the LED itself (no external solder added) solder would stick to the LED.
Grabbing the LED
Use your tweezers to flip your SMD around until you have the negative side pointing in the proper direction. You will then flip it on its side, grab it with your tweezers (you should be pinching the top and bottom parts respective to the LED) and place it over your wireless board.
Soldering the Terminal
While holding the LED sideways over its terminal points, (The direction marker pointing to the green negative terminal), touch your tinned soldering iron to the LED and terminal on the wireless board, and it should hold in place. Now solder the positive end of the LED to the other terminal. Make sure there are no short-circuits where solder has connected multiple terminals together.
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Step.6
Test and Repeat
After you have soldered in your LED, plug the wireless board back into the Xbox 360 to test if the light works. You must have the video cable plugged into your Xbox 360 in order to get the four player LEDs to light up (Otherwise it is only showing the red/error LEDs that the video cable is not plugged in, which would not be lit for us).
If it worked, excellent, you may continue on to doing the other four. If not, make sure that solder is not connecting any terminals together (such as green negative to red negative). Also make sure that your orientation is correct, and the positive is in fact connected to the positive terminal.
Repeat this process for all the LEDs, and you should have a brand new ring of light. Put the Xbox 360 back together and enjoy!
image not found
The first soldered LED works, success!QuackMasterDani
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To Download the PDF or View All Steps,
Become a Pro Member
15 comments Add Comment
.Dec 17, 2009. 4:36 PMwil0016 says:
hay im doing this today and was wondering does it matter what the mcd is in the LED cause if i use a 600mcd red LED insted of the 500 mcd in your decription does it matter or its just gonna be brighter????
thanks mate
REPLY.
9Dec 17, 2009. 10:45 PMQuackMasterDan (author) says:
Get as high of a mcd rating you can. A 600mcd LED will be slightly brighter than a 500mcd LED. Go for it, and if you can get an 800 if you can find one.
REPLY.Dec 10, 2009. 9:46 AMStanvdmeer says:
If you still find it hard to see where you have to solder exactly (, like i did), this tutorial may help you! [ Register or Signin to view external links. ] I find it a little clearer than this one, because the tut from mmmonkey is better to understand if you don't know where to solder, what the positive and negatives are, etc.
But still a great tutorial dude!
REPLY.
9Dec 10, 2009. 6:08 PMQuackMasterDan (author) says:
I'm not criticizing that guide, but how is it any more clear? The pictures are almost exact duplicates of the positives and negatives and LED orientation. If anything, mmmonkey has less pictures and notes than this one, they have the exact same information.
REPLY.Dec 11, 2009. 10:53 AMStanvdmeer says:
I think it is just a good replenishment to your tut, because the guy also explaines about the red ERROR LEDs 'n stuff. I don't say it's better than yours, but I found a combination of yours and that one clearer. REPLY.
9Dec 11, 2009. 11:46 AMQuackMasterDan (author) says:
Well thanks for the link as a complement guide. If a user really wants error LED patterns without having to install two LEDs for each corner, you can just bridge the negative connections for both green and red. Lets say you were to get a RRoD, lights 1,3, and 4 would be lit the color of your LED choices, and would be easy to tell as long as no controllers are plugged in. If the system is working properly, just powering up with the video cable plugged in will leave no corners lit, any errors would just show up anyways, albeit not red.
REPLY.Jun 25, 2009. 10:23 PMstikman says:
With the original LED's removed and no LED installed for an error light, how would you know which error has occured without knowing how many lights are flashing?REPLY.
9Jul 2, 2009. 12:45 AMQuackMasterDan (author) says:
Two solutions, the easier one is to simply not know what error is going on via the blinking lights. The 360s are pretty solid systems, except for the red ring of death which can be alleviated by either replacing the internal fans (preventative only) or installing the x-clamp heatsink fix (preventative and a possible fix). If you still want to know the error codes, purchase some red LEDs as well, and also solder them on, only for the other terminal. I'd suggest using a small u-shaped chunk of wire to connect them, and it's a trickier install.REPLY.Apr 28, 2009. 9:51 PMtj the gnome says:
and then you run it on carpet... CHERISH THOSE THINGS!!REPLY.
9Apr 28, 2009. 10:36 PMQuackMasterDan (author) says:
The carpet is only for the pictures, all of my video games are elevated 2 feet above the floor on a wood table. I'm aware of the damage a non-ventilated space and heavy dust can cause, I take care of my systems.REPLY.Jun 1, 2009. 9:43 AMtj the gnome says:
ohh well that's good. i was gonna say, anyone who has the electronic prowess to do this should know why NOT to run an xbox on carpet.REPLY.May 26, 2009. 3:05 AMNissanine says:
i has a question, do u hav to remove the whole casing of the exbox or just the facyplate?REPLY.Nov 23, 2008. 7:54 AMjam3s08 says:
Hey Great Guide. I was just wanderin though do u do it the same way for the controller if so wat size/volt are the LEDs cuz i dont wanna try it on my xbox yet. Thanx. Just send a comment or even better send an email 2 jameshenry101 @ hotmail.co.uk. thanxREPLY.
9Nov 23, 2008. 12:06 PMQuackMasterDan (author) says:
All Xbox 360s use the same voltage for SMD 0603 LEDs, any 0603 LED is going to light up the wireless board or a controller. The only difference between putting the lights on the controller is the polarity (Direction the LED is facing) is different. The size is very small, about the size of a few grains of salt, you will need tweezers to hold them accurately.REPLY.Nov 17, 2008. 7:34 AMOrion370 says:
My God Man... That is awesome. I think once my warranty runs out Im gonna do this. Id rather let M$ Pay for my repairs while I can :DREPLY.
9Nov 17, 2008. 8:25 AMQuackMasterDan (author) says:
I'm glad that you like the mod, in conjunction with doing the same lights on my controllers its worth voiding the warranty (in my opinion). On November 15th of 2008 (2 days ago) the 3-year Microsoft warranty for the initial launch Xbox 360s just expired, convieniently four days before the Xbox 360 Dashboard update (which always causes a number of 360s to break).REPLY.Nov 17, 2008. 5:16 PMOrion370 says:
How did you go about putting the cold cathodes into your xbox? Those look pretty sweet also. Is there a website that would show or is there another instructable? Worst comes to worst, I just put some LEDs in there I suppose. Great Job though. Def keep up the good work, and my warranty runs out soon enough. July 09. I think Im gonna try on a dead xbox's wireless board first. REPLY.
9Nov 17, 2008. 6:09 PMQuackMasterDan (author) says:
I have taken all of the photos on how to install cold cathodes into a 360. I need some spare time to create the instructable and publish it. If you can wait two-four weeks I'll have it uploaded for you to follow.
If you need help now, in my disassembly guide I have a picture of the 12volt supply on the bottom of the motherboard somewhere in there. Cold cathode positive gets soldered to the 12 volt supply, and the tubes are removed from their acrylic shell and hot glued into place.
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How To Take Apart A 360
Intro
How to Disassemble a Xbox 360
This instructable requires overcoming the fear of playing with the innards of a $350 piece of equipment. The system is built with a sturdy steel chassis and requires Torx T8 and T10 screwdrivers to open.
Knowing how to open your Xbox 360 will enable you to add whatever mods you like. I will be writing instructables on changing the LEDs in your ring of light, and adding cold cathode lighting to heating vents. You will also be able to access your DVD Drive and flash it to play backups, fix the Red Ring of Death, or upgrade various equipment in the console.
Get ready to delve into Microsoft's successor to the Xbox, and have some fun in your future projects.
*** I am not liable for any damage or injury that occurs from following this instructable. The Xbox 360 is a piece of advanced equipment and can be irreparably damaged. Though the risk of breaking your system is highly unlikely if you follow the steps correctly, please do not complain to me if you brick your console. ***
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Step.1
Parts Needed
Torx T8 & T10 Screwdrivers - The console is held together with Torx screws, these screwdrivers are easy to find and quite cheap. If you are hoping to open a Xbox 360 controller, you will need a Security Torx T8H. The best ones I've found are from Llamma's Tool Section.
Small Flathead Screwdrivers/Paper Clips - Used to hold open the friction locks of the 360 front cover. You can also use paper clips if you desire.
360 Opening Tool ($7 - Optional) - This is a specialty part used to pop the rear locks and remove the heating grills. This is worth the $7 pricetag found at Llamma's tools if you open systems repeatedly. Another option for an opening tool is a small flat-head screwdriver, you will have to pop each friction lock one at a time, but almost everybody has a satisfactory screwdriver. Removing the shell gets frustrating and tiresome if you open lots of boxes, but if you don't feel like spending $7+s/h and waiting a week for a tool you will only use twice, don't bother with the Llamma tool.
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Step.2
Heating Grills/Faceplate
First remove the hard drive on the console, flip it over and with your thumb in the faceplate notch, remove the faceplate.
Faceplate
On the right side of the 360 there is a notch at the end of the faceplate. Put your thumb on this notch and pull away from the console with a good deal of force. The plate should pop off of the casing.
Heating Grills
On each end of the console there are two gray heating grills which must be removed to take apart the console. For each grill there are six friction tabs that must be pressed inwards toward the console and lifted up. The locations are noted in photos below.
For the hard drive grill, there is an elevated level that must have two tabs pushed sideways. Stick the tool through the opening and push in the direction shown in the photos. Then insert your tool into each of the remaining tabs and lift out the grill from front to back. There is a single tab that is underneath a rubber foot on the base of the console. You must puncture the plastic underneath this to remove the grill, it is a sign to Microsoft of a voided warranty.
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Step.3
Lower Shell
There are two halves of the 360 outer casing. The bottom shell is held on by front and rear plastic locks. We will use a 360 opening tool to pop the locks and small flathead screwdrivers to release the front locks. Everything gets lifted apart at the same time.
Rear Locks
If you do not have a 360 opening tool, you can measure the distance of the locks and create your own with a CD spindle cover and scissors. If you are using a flat-head screwdriver use one hand to continually pull the two halves apart, otherwise some locks will re-engage.
There are seven rear locks, and with the Llamma opening tool line up the pins into their respective locks and press down. When you've used enough pressure you should hear a pop, now you can separate the rear section of the bottom and top shells.
Front Locks
You can use either flathead screwdrivers or paper clips to hold open the locks. All four are popped at the same time, and the lower shell can be removed. You must either cut or peel off the Microsoft warranty sticker on the front of the console, doing so will void your warranty. The stickers have a residue that keeps them from being put back on cleanly. If you have a metal sticker are care about the warranty, read below. If you have one of the new paper stickers, there is no effective way to remove it without Microsoft knowing.
Metal Film Trick
For a metal-film sticker a hair-dryer can be used on high for about 10-15 seconds to make this adhesive melt, and peel off the sticker carefully and slowly with a razor blade to remove the sticker without leaving behind the metal residue. This trick can be useful for having a system that has been opened repaired by Microsofts repair service. I've heard of many users who have attempted to fix a RRoD themselves and failed, if a DVD drive is modified with iXtreme a user can reflash it to stock, and as long as the sticker is intact the very rushed employees at Microsoft's repair centers aren't likely to check for other minor signs of tampering.
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Step.4
Screws/DVD Drive
There are a large number of screws to be removed. I suggest cutting a long strand of duct tape to stick your pieces to, so during reassembly the console can go back together smoothly.
View the pictures below to determine screw locations.
Firstly, remove the DVD eject button by inserting a small flat-head screwdriver in between the DVD drive and the eject buttons base.
Casing Screws
The top shell is attached to the chassis though the use of six T10 Torx screws. They are highlighted in red in the picture below. These screws are identifiable as flat headed rounded screws, and are about 3 1/2" long.
DVD Removal
Once the six casing screws are removed, flip the console right side up and lift off the upper shell. Disconnect the SATA cable and power cable from the DVD drive. You should be careful with the DVD drive power cable as the connector is fragile and wires can be torn out, so grab all the black wires as close to the connector as possible, and forcefully wiggle the connector out. At the front of the DVD drive there are two friction clips, which prevent movement and rattling. Also lift up the metal tape that holds the drive to the chassis. Lift out the drive and place the friction clips on the duct tape roll.
Motherboard Screws
These screws are highlighted in green in the picture below. These connect different pieces of the motherboard to the chassis. They are about 1" long, bronze colored, and have a round top. Unscrew them all with your T10 Torx screwdriver and place them on the tape roll.
Heatsink Screws
For these final eight screws, highlighted in blue, tilt the console to a vertical position. We do not want to remove the screws while the system is upside down, as the weight of the heatsinks on the final screws could have enough stress to crack some traces. With the console vertical, remove the final eight screws with your T8 and set the console right-side up.
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Step.5
Fans/Wireless Board/Motherboard
Head Shroud/Fans
There is a white heating shroud that helps air flow more efficiently from the CPU and GPU heatsinks. It is held in place by the fan housing itself. Insert a flat-head screwdriver into its lock point and pull off the shroud, it will take some wiggling to remove. Remove the fan power cable from the motherboard. Finally, lift up on the metal tap above the fans, and pull the fan casing towards the front of the console. Lift it out and set it to the side.
Wireless board
The ring of light and wireless antenna is attached to this board on the front of the console. There are three T8 screws, with one underneath the white diffusion clip. This clip disperses the light for players 1-4. Pop off the bottom of the clip with a flat-head screwdriver, and the third screw will be revealed. Place these screws on the duct tape roll. You can now pull the wireless board off of the console. If anything ever happens to your wireless board, a replacement or spare wireless board is exchangeable between Xbox 360s (Unlike DVD drives which are ID'd to the motherboard).
Motherboard
It is time to remove the final piece. Grab the motherboard by the GPU heatsink (short and wide) and lift out the front first. Remove out the entire board and you have access to the entire system. Kudos!, You've just disassembled your Xbox 360.
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How to Disassemble a Xbox 360
This instructable requires overcoming the fear of playing with the innards of a $350 piece of equipment. The system is built with a sturdy steel chassis and requires Torx T8 and T10 screwdrivers to open.
Knowing how to open your Xbox 360 will enable you to add whatever mods you like. I will be writing instructables on changing the LEDs in your ring of light, and adding cold cathode lighting to heating vents. You will also be able to access your DVD Drive and flash it to play backups, fix the Red Ring of Death, or upgrade various equipment in the console.
Get ready to delve into Microsoft's successor to the Xbox, and have some fun in your future projects.
*** I am not liable for any damage or injury that occurs from following this instructable. The Xbox 360 is a piece of advanced equipment and can be irreparably damaged. Though the risk of breaking your system is highly unlikely if you follow the steps correctly, please do not complain to me if you brick your console. ***
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Step.1
Parts Needed
Torx T8 & T10 Screwdrivers - The console is held together with Torx screws, these screwdrivers are easy to find and quite cheap. If you are hoping to open a Xbox 360 controller, you will need a Security Torx T8H. The best ones I've found are from Llamma's Tool Section.
Small Flathead Screwdrivers/Paper Clips - Used to hold open the friction locks of the 360 front cover. You can also use paper clips if you desire.
360 Opening Tool ($7 - Optional) - This is a specialty part used to pop the rear locks and remove the heating grills. This is worth the $7 pricetag found at Llamma's tools if you open systems repeatedly. Another option for an opening tool is a small flat-head screwdriver, you will have to pop each friction lock one at a time, but almost everybody has a satisfactory screwdriver. Removing the shell gets frustrating and tiresome if you open lots of boxes, but if you don't feel like spending $7+s/h and waiting a week for a tool you will only use twice, don't bother with the Llamma tool.
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Step.2
Heating Grills/Faceplate
First remove the hard drive on the console, flip it over and with your thumb in the faceplate notch, remove the faceplate.
Faceplate
On the right side of the 360 there is a notch at the end of the faceplate. Put your thumb on this notch and pull away from the console with a good deal of force. The plate should pop off of the casing.
Heating Grills
On each end of the console there are two gray heating grills which must be removed to take apart the console. For each grill there are six friction tabs that must be pressed inwards toward the console and lifted up. The locations are noted in photos below.
For the hard drive grill, there is an elevated level that must have two tabs pushed sideways. Stick the tool through the opening and push in the direction shown in the photos. Then insert your tool into each of the remaining tabs and lift out the grill from front to back. There is a single tab that is underneath a rubber foot on the base of the console. You must puncture the plastic underneath this to remove the grill, it is a sign to Microsoft of a voided warranty.
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Step.3
Lower Shell
There are two halves of the 360 outer casing. The bottom shell is held on by front and rear plastic locks. We will use a 360 opening tool to pop the locks and small flathead screwdrivers to release the front locks. Everything gets lifted apart at the same time.
Rear Locks
If you do not have a 360 opening tool, you can measure the distance of the locks and create your own with a CD spindle cover and scissors. If you are using a flat-head screwdriver use one hand to continually pull the two halves apart, otherwise some locks will re-engage.
There are seven rear locks, and with the Llamma opening tool line up the pins into their respective locks and press down. When you've used enough pressure you should hear a pop, now you can separate the rear section of the bottom and top shells.
Front Locks
You can use either flathead screwdrivers or paper clips to hold open the locks. All four are popped at the same time, and the lower shell can be removed. You must either cut or peel off the Microsoft warranty sticker on the front of the console, doing so will void your warranty. The stickers have a residue that keeps them from being put back on cleanly. If you have a metal sticker are care about the warranty, read below. If you have one of the new paper stickers, there is no effective way to remove it without Microsoft knowing.
Metal Film Trick
For a metal-film sticker a hair-dryer can be used on high for about 10-15 seconds to make this adhesive melt, and peel off the sticker carefully and slowly with a razor blade to remove the sticker without leaving behind the metal residue. This trick can be useful for having a system that has been opened repaired by Microsofts repair service. I've heard of many users who have attempted to fix a RRoD themselves and failed, if a DVD drive is modified with iXtreme a user can reflash it to stock, and as long as the sticker is intact the very rushed employees at Microsoft's repair centers aren't likely to check for other minor signs of tampering.
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Step.4
Screws/DVD Drive
There are a large number of screws to be removed. I suggest cutting a long strand of duct tape to stick your pieces to, so during reassembly the console can go back together smoothly.
View the pictures below to determine screw locations.
Firstly, remove the DVD eject button by inserting a small flat-head screwdriver in between the DVD drive and the eject buttons base.
Casing Screws
The top shell is attached to the chassis though the use of six T10 Torx screws. They are highlighted in red in the picture below. These screws are identifiable as flat headed rounded screws, and are about 3 1/2" long.
DVD Removal
Once the six casing screws are removed, flip the console right side up and lift off the upper shell. Disconnect the SATA cable and power cable from the DVD drive. You should be careful with the DVD drive power cable as the connector is fragile and wires can be torn out, so grab all the black wires as close to the connector as possible, and forcefully wiggle the connector out. At the front of the DVD drive there are two friction clips, which prevent movement and rattling. Also lift up the metal tape that holds the drive to the chassis. Lift out the drive and place the friction clips on the duct tape roll.
Motherboard Screws
These screws are highlighted in green in the picture below. These connect different pieces of the motherboard to the chassis. They are about 1" long, bronze colored, and have a round top. Unscrew them all with your T10 Torx screwdriver and place them on the tape roll.
Heatsink Screws
For these final eight screws, highlighted in blue, tilt the console to a vertical position. We do not want to remove the screws while the system is upside down, as the weight of the heatsinks on the final screws could have enough stress to crack some traces. With the console vertical, remove the final eight screws with your T8 and set the console right-side up.
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Step.5
Fans/Wireless Board/Motherboard
Head Shroud/Fans
There is a white heating shroud that helps air flow more efficiently from the CPU and GPU heatsinks. It is held in place by the fan housing itself. Insert a flat-head screwdriver into its lock point and pull off the shroud, it will take some wiggling to remove. Remove the fan power cable from the motherboard. Finally, lift up on the metal tap above the fans, and pull the fan casing towards the front of the console. Lift it out and set it to the side.
Wireless board
The ring of light and wireless antenna is attached to this board on the front of the console. There are three T8 screws, with one underneath the white diffusion clip. This clip disperses the light for players 1-4. Pop off the bottom of the clip with a flat-head screwdriver, and the third screw will be revealed. Place these screws on the duct tape roll. You can now pull the wireless board off of the console. If anything ever happens to your wireless board, a replacement or spare wireless board is exchangeable between Xbox 360s (Unlike DVD drives which are ID'd to the motherboard).
Motherboard
It is time to remove the final piece. Grab the motherboard by the GPU heatsink (short and wide) and lift out the front first. Remove out the entire board and you have access to the entire system. Kudos!, You've just disassembled your Xbox 360.
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How to Fix Open Tray Error
1.The first thing that you want to do is restart your console. If you can't restart, simply unplug your console, and plug it back in.
2.The next thing you want to do is check all the cables on the back of your Xbox. If you have to, pull out each one, and put them back in place.
3.The next step you'll want to try is by removing the hard drive, and putting it back in. If you have another one laying around, try placing that one instead to see if that works.
4.If you've been trying the open disk error with the same game, try putting in a newer game. It may be the game's problem.
5.The last thing that you want to try BUT keep in mind that it's going to void your warranty, so do it at your own risk! You'll want to open up your Xbox, clean out the dust on the inside, and clean the DVD lenses with a Q TIP, or a cotton bud.
2.The next thing you want to do is check all the cables on the back of your Xbox. If you have to, pull out each one, and put them back in place.
3.The next step you'll want to try is by removing the hard drive, and putting it back in. If you have another one laying around, try placing that one instead to see if that works.
4.If you've been trying the open disk error with the same game, try putting in a newer game. It may be the game's problem.
5.The last thing that you want to try BUT keep in mind that it's going to void your warranty, so do it at your own risk! You'll want to open up your Xbox, clean out the dust on the inside, and clean the DVD lenses with a Q TIP, or a cotton bud.
#2. Posted:
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this should get sticked
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