This tutorial requires a mod chip!


18-Mode Sleeper Installation Guide
Here you will learn several things about your controller and how to mod it. This is a very easy process to learn, and will be great if you are thinking about starting a business selling Mod Services or Modded Controllers. Below are the steps needed to mod your controller as well as the links to the diagram(s) you will need. Save both diagrams, as one is for OLD BOARDS and one is for NEW BOARDS. See Step 6 to determine which BOARD you have.


The 8 Pins on the Chip (See Diagram):

1: Power
2: 2nd, 3rd, or 4th player led
3: Sync button
4: Jumper (Old board - goes to Pin 1 ; New board - goes to Pin 5)
5: Ground
6: Right trigger
7: Left trigger
8: Not Used


CHIP DIAGRAM:
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NEW BOARDS:
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OLD BOARDS:
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Tools you will need:

30 Gauge Wire
Mod Chip
Soldering Iron
Solder
Painters Tape
T8 Security TORX Driver
Hot Glue Gun (optional)
Diode (Depending on which motherboard you have)











Step l:

The first thing you want to do is tape off all your buttons so they don't fall out when you disassemble your controller. We find it best to use painters tape as it won't leave your buttons sticky when your done, but any tape will do.

Step 2:

Remove the 7 screws from the back of the controller using a T8 Security TORX Driver. There are 3 on each side and 1 behind the bar code sticker. This will void the controllers warranty.

Step 3:

Once the controller is taken apart, you can move the faceplate, analog sticks, and everything else off to the side. All you need in front of you is the circuit board sitting in the back of the controller.

Step 4:

This step is figuring out where you want your chip inside the controller. The Diagrams (links above) show the chip to be in the right side of the controller on TOP of the circuit board. We find it easier to work with if you HOT GLUE the chip UNDER the circuit board on the LEFT side of the controller above the rumble pack tucked away. You can put it anywhere you want.

Step 5:

Once you know where your chip is going, you can cut the wires to the lengths they need to be to get where they need to go. The left side of the controller as explained in Step 4 uses the least amount of wire.

Step 6:

Determine if you have an OLD OR NEW Circuit Board. NEW BOARDS have the name 'MICROSOFT' in the center of the board, and OLD BOARDS have the name MICROSOFT off to the right of the board. It doesn't matter which one you have except for the Diode that came with your kit will be installed to the #2 Pin of the chip to make the 4th player LED brighter. Everything else is exactly the same install instructions.

Step 7:

Cut your wires for your chip, and strip the ends of each wire. You can do this anyway you like, but we think the best way is to strip each side and then put solder on the ends to make the install go smoothly. The chip pictured in the diagrams shows the chip faced down which means the legs are pointed towards the floor. The chip has a notch on the front of it and thats the top, and is shown exactly the way it needs to be wired in the diagram. Solder all your cut wires to the legs.

If the chip is facing down (like the diagram) then the left side of the chip goes in order from top to bottom (Top being where the notch is): Power, LED, Sync, Jumper. The trickiest wire to solder to is the sync button. On the NEW BOARDS, there are 3 tiny solder points under the sync button. You want to solder to the CENTER one without touching the other points. If its an OLD BOARD, then theres a spot to the left of the sync button to wire to (see diagram).

The jumper is the smallest wire you will need and it just goes to one of the other legs depending on what BOARD you have. If its an OLD BOARD then the Jumper goes to the POWER spot (see diagram, you will see the 2 wires connecting). If its a NEW BOARD then the jumper jumps over to the GROUND (black wire in diagram). You can just solder it to the leg its supposed to go to in the diagram. You can also just run a second wire to the spot indicated on the diagram if you don't want to install the jumper wire.

If your installing your kit to a OLD BOARD, solder the diode to the LED leg with the Black spot on the diode FACING TOWARDS the CHIP! Then connect the wire from the diode to the 4th player LED (see diagram). The other side of the chip (legs facing DOWN) goes in order from top to bottom: Ground, Left Trigger, Right Trigger. See the Diagram to see where these wires go to.

TIP: If you do NOT want Dual Rapid Fire, do not connect the LEFT trigger wire. The triggers are the center solder points of the 3 on each side of the controller.

Step 8:

Once all your wires are in place, test it out before putting it back together. If everything seems to work properly, then you will want to HOT GLUE all the solder spots to make sure the wires stay for good! You don't have to do this, but I find it keeps the wires positioned good while your putting the controller back together.

Step 9:

Putting your controller back together can be a little tricky. The best way to do it is to put the grey bottom piece on first (sits on the bottom of the controller). Then position your rumble packs back to the way they were so the faceplate and right and left bumpers can go back on. You can tape the right and left bumper piece to the faceplate to make it easier. Don't forget the rubber pad that goes under the buttons. You can cut a small piece out of the 4th player notch on the rubber piece to make it fit with the wire attached the LED.

Once you have the controller put back together, put the first screw in near the sync button, then on the 2 bottom corners. TEST the controller again just to make sure. If the controller still works, then go ahead and put all your screws back in.

Step 10:

CRUSH XBOX LIVE with your new Sleeper MOD!!
Thank you, and we hope you enjoy your new MODDED controller.