Yes, you'll need to cut the wire back.

r00t wrote Yes, you'll need to cut the wire back.

Well look. It just a BUNCH of copper this is what i was trying to say. I used macro on the ollo clip to get the shot on iPhone. [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]

-iGraphic- wrote

r00t wrote Yes, you'll need to cut the wire back.

Well look. It just a BUNCH of copper this is what i was trying to say. I used macro on the ollo clip to get the shot on iPhone. [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]

The wire wouldn't work if it was nothing but a bunch of copper. It's probably a layer of copper shielding around the four wires.

r00t wrote

-iGraphic- wrote

r00t wrote Yes, you'll need to cut the wire back.

Well look. It just a BUNCH of copper this is what i was trying to say. I used macro on the ollo clip to get the shot on iPhone. [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]

The wire wouldn't work if it was nothing but a bunch of copper. It's probably a layer of copper shielding around the four wires.

Iam thinking that the diode (Black thigy) shorted out when it was ripped?

-iGraphic- wrote

r00t wrote

-iGraphic- wrote

r00t wrote Yes, you'll need to cut the wire back.

Well look. It just a BUNCH of copper this is what i was trying to say. I used macro on the ollo clip to get the shot on iPhone. [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]

The wire wouldn't work if it was nothing but a bunch of copper. It's probably a layer of copper shielding around the four wires.

Iam thinking that the diode (Black thigy) shorted out when it was ripped?

If you're talking about the black plastic cylinder near the jack, it's a ferrite choke that suppresses noise in circuits. It's completely passive, just like the cable when it's not connected to anything on either side.

Mad Catz Is sending me a new inline controller. But thanks for every one who helped! Especially r00t!