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FREE CODES INSIDE!!! Make your own controller! by Hazer
Posted:
FREE CODES INSIDE!!! Make your own controller! by HazerPosted:
Status: Offline
Joined: Mar 23, 200915Year Member
Posts: 35
Reputation Power: 3
NOTE: This thread is meant to educate people on modded controllers whether you are building your own or thinking of purchasing one already installed! Read this introduction before purchasing anything!
CREDITS: I will link material authored from myself along with the following people:
RDC at Xbox-scene
Sparkfun electronics
Modded Matt from Acidmods
Gotjumbo from Youtube
Microchip Inc.
(Please forgive if I left someone out, not intentional.)
There is a lot of info here, and it looks daunting at first but it really just boils down to: Program the chip, open the controller, solder the chip into the controller, put the controller back together. Its actually a 15 minute process (Youtube is filled with examples). The reason why this thread is so big is to make sure you get enough information not to be tripped up with common mistakes made by everyone. Please read on.
This thread will contain a brief introduction to modded controllers with an overview of what it takes to make one, followed by an in-depth tutorial on how to make your own.
Introduction: By now, you should already know what a rapidfire controller is. What I am going to show you is how easy it is to make a modded controller and what you should consider before buying one. First, lets talk about the controller types currently out there: There are alot of controllers being sold by Ebayers and forums people who do not host their own websites. What they sell is rapidfire of all types mostly revolving around 'how many modes we have' and 'this controller is the fastest for Game X'. Then there are controllers being sold by people who have websites, and even professional web stores. These controllers are basically the same thing, but some have 'glitches' for specific games also. With a few exceptions (to be mentioned later) these controllers have no physical difference from the 'best' all the way down to the teenagers selling controllers out of their basement on Ebay. 99% of what makes all of these controllers is a programmable microchip. This microchip has a 'code' that is programmed inside of it to perform all of these things that we call Rapdifire or Glitches or Macros. Its a tiny computer with the most basic of languages. I would venture to guess that at least 90% of these chips are the PIC 12F683 chip. This chip costs $1.25 each individually, or less than $1 in bulk. The code is programmed into the chip with a programmer that can cost as much as $100 for the professional ones, to $10 for the starter edition ones from Ebay, or you can build one for $2 if you have the knowledge. Thats a one-time cost mind you.
The real meat of the controller is the code itself. It contains all of the speeds, all of the modes, all of the glitches that all of these people market. So lets talk about that shall we. Over 3 years ago, I personally released a handful of codes for people to make thier own controllers. I did all of the work, including showing people how to change speeds, how to add burst, how to add modes, and a very descriptive design overview of how these codes work and the reverse engineering of the controllers themselves. You can find all of this information here:
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Needless to say, Ebay boomed with controllers shortly after I published this on the net. This started on a thread at Microchip (who makes of the PIC12F683) that grew over 1500 replies long. It had over 1/2 million hits and that was 3 years ago. Since that time, I have released even more codes including ones that made adjusting speeds on the controller instead of having to disassemble the controller to re-program the speed. I will post links to those codes later in this thread. But for now, take a look at what all of these people are selling. It is not much different than what I posted for free. And I am not the only one. Others have posted glitch codes publically. What I am saying is that most of these people did not even write the code themselves. They did not even put in any effort to make the most important part of your modded controller. And lets say they did. It took me 4 weeks to come up with most of the early codes. And quite frankly, even the professional websites offer nothing better than what I posted 3 years ago. Ontop of all of this is the fact that these codes are written for 'todays games' and become useless in 8 months when the new round of games comes out. Think about it, it was only a year ago people were buying World at War controllers, and since then there has been two more COD games. But lets get on with the rest of what makes a modded controller:
1: You take your $1 chip and then program it in a JDM programmer.
2: You load the hex file (this is the code) into ICProg and hit enter, and now your chip is programmed in 5 seconds.
3: Disassemble the controller in 20 seconds.
4: (Optional) Drill a hole in the controller.
5: Next, take a tact switch that costs $0.08 and drill a hole in the controller and hot-glue the tact switch to the controller. This takes 3 minutes. If you market 'stealth' like its a good thing, you can save the time and money of this step. (End Optional)
6: Hot-glue or sticky tape the chip to the inside of the controller, another 20 seconds.
7: Take $0.02 worth of 30 gauge wire-wrap wire and solder the chip to the controller with a $7 soldering iron from Radioshack. You can save money by soldering one or two wires to the existing controllers LEDs. Its a trade off between skill vs spending money on buying LEDs. The soldering takes less than 4 minutes for someone who has done it quite a few times. I would say a beginner would have to spend 20 minutes tops.
8: Re-assemble the controller and test it, another 20 seconds for assembly and 2-3 minutes to play some COD to make sure it works.
Total Cost: $1.00 to $1.20 Total Time: Less than 8 minutes if you drill the hole for a switch, 5 minutes for a stealth install.
How much does a brand new controller cost these website Rapidfire retailers? Less than $25.Some actually sell the controller unmoddified for that much. If the price for a controller is $65-$130, then what you are buying is 8 minutes of labor and a code for $40-$95. I have seen an Top Retailer controller that cost $125 taken apart, and it had a cheaper chip in it (PIC12F618 which is $0.50) and 4 wires. This is why I am posting this information. Alot of you keep talking about who is better, and 'getting your moneys worth'. The real answer is that they all screw you over. Look at the money here. What is even more pathetic is that THERE ARE FREE CODES THAT ARE BETTER THAN WHAT THESE PEOPLE SELL!! So, if you read this far but do not plan on making your own, please look on to the following. I will post a 'buyers guide' that should educate you on what really matters when buying a Rapidfire controller.
Last edited by Hazer ; edited 1 time in total
CREDITS: I will link material authored from myself along with the following people:
RDC at Xbox-scene
Sparkfun electronics
Modded Matt from Acidmods
Gotjumbo from Youtube
Microchip Inc.
(Please forgive if I left someone out, not intentional.)
There is a lot of info here, and it looks daunting at first but it really just boils down to: Program the chip, open the controller, solder the chip into the controller, put the controller back together. Its actually a 15 minute process (Youtube is filled with examples). The reason why this thread is so big is to make sure you get enough information not to be tripped up with common mistakes made by everyone. Please read on.
This thread will contain a brief introduction to modded controllers with an overview of what it takes to make one, followed by an in-depth tutorial on how to make your own.
Introduction: By now, you should already know what a rapidfire controller is. What I am going to show you is how easy it is to make a modded controller and what you should consider before buying one. First, lets talk about the controller types currently out there: There are alot of controllers being sold by Ebayers and forums people who do not host their own websites. What they sell is rapidfire of all types mostly revolving around 'how many modes we have' and 'this controller is the fastest for Game X'. Then there are controllers being sold by people who have websites, and even professional web stores. These controllers are basically the same thing, but some have 'glitches' for specific games also. With a few exceptions (to be mentioned later) these controllers have no physical difference from the 'best' all the way down to the teenagers selling controllers out of their basement on Ebay. 99% of what makes all of these controllers is a programmable microchip. This microchip has a 'code' that is programmed inside of it to perform all of these things that we call Rapdifire or Glitches or Macros. Its a tiny computer with the most basic of languages. I would venture to guess that at least 90% of these chips are the PIC 12F683 chip. This chip costs $1.25 each individually, or less than $1 in bulk. The code is programmed into the chip with a programmer that can cost as much as $100 for the professional ones, to $10 for the starter edition ones from Ebay, or you can build one for $2 if you have the knowledge. Thats a one-time cost mind you.
The real meat of the controller is the code itself. It contains all of the speeds, all of the modes, all of the glitches that all of these people market. So lets talk about that shall we. Over 3 years ago, I personally released a handful of codes for people to make thier own controllers. I did all of the work, including showing people how to change speeds, how to add burst, how to add modes, and a very descriptive design overview of how these codes work and the reverse engineering of the controllers themselves. You can find all of this information here:
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Needless to say, Ebay boomed with controllers shortly after I published this on the net. This started on a thread at Microchip (who makes of the PIC12F683) that grew over 1500 replies long. It had over 1/2 million hits and that was 3 years ago. Since that time, I have released even more codes including ones that made adjusting speeds on the controller instead of having to disassemble the controller to re-program the speed. I will post links to those codes later in this thread. But for now, take a look at what all of these people are selling. It is not much different than what I posted for free. And I am not the only one. Others have posted glitch codes publically. What I am saying is that most of these people did not even write the code themselves. They did not even put in any effort to make the most important part of your modded controller. And lets say they did. It took me 4 weeks to come up with most of the early codes. And quite frankly, even the professional websites offer nothing better than what I posted 3 years ago. Ontop of all of this is the fact that these codes are written for 'todays games' and become useless in 8 months when the new round of games comes out. Think about it, it was only a year ago people were buying World at War controllers, and since then there has been two more COD games. But lets get on with the rest of what makes a modded controller:
1: You take your $1 chip and then program it in a JDM programmer.
2: You load the hex file (this is the code) into ICProg and hit enter, and now your chip is programmed in 5 seconds.
3: Disassemble the controller in 20 seconds.
4: (Optional) Drill a hole in the controller.
5: Next, take a tact switch that costs $0.08 and drill a hole in the controller and hot-glue the tact switch to the controller. This takes 3 minutes. If you market 'stealth' like its a good thing, you can save the time and money of this step. (End Optional)
6: Hot-glue or sticky tape the chip to the inside of the controller, another 20 seconds.
7: Take $0.02 worth of 30 gauge wire-wrap wire and solder the chip to the controller with a $7 soldering iron from Radioshack. You can save money by soldering one or two wires to the existing controllers LEDs. Its a trade off between skill vs spending money on buying LEDs. The soldering takes less than 4 minutes for someone who has done it quite a few times. I would say a beginner would have to spend 20 minutes tops.
8: Re-assemble the controller and test it, another 20 seconds for assembly and 2-3 minutes to play some COD to make sure it works.
Total Cost: $1.00 to $1.20 Total Time: Less than 8 minutes if you drill the hole for a switch, 5 minutes for a stealth install.
How much does a brand new controller cost these website Rapidfire retailers? Less than $25.Some actually sell the controller unmoddified for that much. If the price for a controller is $65-$130, then what you are buying is 8 minutes of labor and a code for $40-$95. I have seen an Top Retailer controller that cost $125 taken apart, and it had a cheaper chip in it (PIC12F618 which is $0.50) and 4 wires. This is why I am posting this information. Alot of you keep talking about who is better, and 'getting your moneys worth'. The real answer is that they all screw you over. Look at the money here. What is even more pathetic is that THERE ARE FREE CODES THAT ARE BETTER THAN WHAT THESE PEOPLE SELL!! So, if you read this far but do not plan on making your own, please look on to the following. I will post a 'buyers guide' that should educate you on what really matters when buying a Rapidfire controller.
Last edited by Hazer ; edited 1 time in total
#2. Posted:
Status: Offline
Joined: Mar 23, 200915Year Member
Posts: 35
Reputation Power: 3
CODES: What types of codes are there?
One of the simplest codes is basically the same as the BMU2 (BurnMeUp2) opensource code. It is a stealth install code that uses the sync button to change modes. BMU2 was written with 4 modes, but it is very easy to add more. Since the install is stealth (no external buttons and no drilling the shell) it is basically just wire. It may require resistors and a diode for Matrix controllers due to the voltages. You need to sacrifice one mode to be an 'off' mode. The other modes will have certain 'speeds' setup. Usually, each speed/mode is for a different game. You cahnge which mode you are in by pressing the SYNC button. This has the drawback that if you hit the SYNC button for too long or too many quick presses it will disconnect your controller from the console. I personally hate this type of code. What some people have added to this basic style is: Dual trigger = both trigger rapidfire, great for Halo. Burst = rapidfire a limited amount of shots, making it like the M16. Akimbo = make both weapons fire by only pressing the right trigger wile dual-wielding. If you add a little more code, you can change the basic shape of the rapidfire signal. This was done to trick patches made by the game developers in order to shoot faster than standard rapidfire signals. Basically, you have the 'pressed' time of the signal longer or shorter than the 'released' time of the signal. All of these options are simply code and add no cost to the setup. Usually you wire one pin to the controllers LEDs in order to blink the LED to show what mode you are in. You can also wire a free pin to one of the controllers buttons and be able to add 'glitches'. Common glitches are: JITTER = This is a rapid timed press of the Y button to make you switch weapons in between shots. Its more like Y-Y-R trigger. This creates the effect that you switch away from your current weap, then back to it again and then fire one shot before repaeting. This ends up with a faster rate of fire than allowable from the game developers, but makes the aim jitter so much it is pretty worthless. But mod shops market it like its something you need, and it only works for one or two games. DROPSHOT = Forcing the player to crouch at the same time as bursting the fire. Supposedly makes you harder to hit and helps with recoil. RAPIDRELOAD = If you time your ammo perfectly, this will reload your weap a partial second faster. It is great if you are reloading at exactly the same time as the guy in front of you and you both have no ammo in your pistol and the moons are aligned and the universe is perfect with the timing of your network, then you will win the showdown by 0.2 seconds. Glitches. They sound great, but have no practical purpose. Quite frankly, it is a marketing tactic used to garner sales based upon the ignorance of the buyer.
Another common code is Gameplay. This one has one (or two) tact switches added to the bottom of the controller. This allows you to quickly turn the rapdifire on or off by tapping the button. Its a better way to manipulate the 'modes' while actually playing the game. Switching through 4 modes with the SYNC button is bad while your actually playing the game. You change modes by holding the tact down for more than a second.
Here is a video of it:
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Number of modes: The greatest travesty of rapidfire today is how many modes people offer. They now have 18 and 20 mode codes, like its a good thing. Why? Do you really want to press the button 15 times to get to mode 3 in the middle of a game? Have you actually tried it? Why is there an appeal for more modes? Its a ploy to get you to buy a crappy code. The idea is based upon the fact that most codes have a few modes that have been programmed for only 2 or 3 games. 18 modes means you have modes for a bunch of games. This comes down to who has the best speeds for which game is popular right now, and how long will your controller be useful. More modes means your code will have a better chance at working on games that come out tomorrow. Lets face it, if you buy a controller, you have no way of changing what those speeds are with these codes. If you make your own, you still have to take the controller apart to reprogram it. Having more than 3 or 4 modes is pretty worthless under any concept. Even if the modes are based on options (1 = akimbo, 2 = burst, 3 = dropshot, etc). This leads to the next set of codes: Adjustable firerates.
Adjustable controllers are a must. Even if you program your own, you do not want to crack the controller open all the time. The first type of adjustable is self-editing. This means the controller has a way to enter an 'editing mode' where you can adjust the firerate and save it under at least one mode. This feature has the second-best chance of being future-proof to work with new games. Now you do not have to open your controller when the new game comes out in 6 months. Most sellers have ONE of thier modes as adjustable. They still have 17 other 'set speed' modes because lets face it, they think your stupid and they give you one adjustable mode but still keep using the 'I have more modes than the other guy' marketing to trick you into buying thier controller. If you can change the speed, why would you have anything other than one mode? You can change it to any speed you want. Here are some arguments made by these sellers as to why: Seller: Programming takes too long, you want to switch modes fast. Buyer: If the speed is game specific, why do I want to switch the mode fast if I am changing the game I am playing? Seller: each mode has a different glitch. Mode 1 is dropshot, mode 2 is rapid-reload. Buyer: So why dont you make it that you turn the glitches on or off along with changing the speed, instead of having a bunch of modes to cycle through? Seller: Adjusting modes is complex, you wont get it right and takes too long to figure it out. Buyer: I am not that stupid, dont treat me like a child.
A better code would be to have a very few modes. In each mode you could set the speed and turn options and glitches on or off. You should be able to adjust how many modes you want also. Think about it, you decide how you want the controller to act like, completely. If you start playing a new game, change everything about the controller. Dont force yourself into cycling through 20 modes. Dont believe that these people have something special you dont know about. I personally kept using 2 modes: ON and off. I would change the speed when I changed the game. It is a pain to cycle through 4 modes and count LED flashes when your still online. You want to know the real funny thing? If you think this idea for a code sounds like the right way to go, wouldnt it be nice if someone offered it? How about for free? Well guess what, its called FLEX, and its been free for over a year.
Here is how it works:
The last code that would be better: Programmable through the PC. Self-editing does have the drawback of being cumbersome, even though you should not be editing multiple times a day. But if you wanted things to be that much more faster and easier, then changing the settings on the controller using a point-and-click interface would be the ultimate way. Here is a sample of what I mean:
That particular design is still not advanced enough. The best design would be in such a way to accept firmware updates (just like your ipod nano). If there was any true reason to update the code in the chip, why not be able to do it yourself with a USB cable and clicking a button?
Hopefully you have read this far, and now are better armed with how most people have been taken advantage of when it comes to rapidfire controllers. Take a GOOD look at what people offer. One thing to consider is that customer service also plays a part in this. But weight that against how much you pay for that service. In the case of the biggest retailers out there (Evil, Silent, Gamerz, Rapid, Voodoo, etc) they charge over $100 for what can be done in a teenagers basement with 5 minutes and $27 (controller cost included). So for $73+ you pay for 5 minutes of work, some extra cost in 'nicer' packaging, the cost to accept credit cards, the cost to run a website with maybe some forum support, and better customer service. What customer service though? Will they replace the controller if it no longer works on new games? No. Will they replace the controller if it stops working after 6 months? How many controllers really break within 6 months? Do they reprogam the controller after you buy it? No. Do they update it? No. Will they sell you another controller when a new game comes out after 6 months? Yes. Will they take your old controller in trade? No. So, what did that $68 get you for in service? You can tell me about stories of how "when something was messed up, they quickly fixed it". They should do that for free, its part of the cost of labor!
Quite frankly, the only reason why they can charge these prices and get away with it is.........people keep buying it and they get away with it. If you judge how 'good' a seller is based upon the complexity of their website and how professional they market themselves, just remember the golden rule of the business model: All costs of the business are paid for by the customer. You pay for all the expensive advertising the 'best' sellers spend money on, you pay for the retail packaging, you pay for the website fees acrued. And after all of that, they still make a profit of over $50 a controller.
OK, I am done. Now onto the tutorial.
One of the simplest codes is basically the same as the BMU2 (BurnMeUp2) opensource code. It is a stealth install code that uses the sync button to change modes. BMU2 was written with 4 modes, but it is very easy to add more. Since the install is stealth (no external buttons and no drilling the shell) it is basically just wire. It may require resistors and a diode for Matrix controllers due to the voltages. You need to sacrifice one mode to be an 'off' mode. The other modes will have certain 'speeds' setup. Usually, each speed/mode is for a different game. You cahnge which mode you are in by pressing the SYNC button. This has the drawback that if you hit the SYNC button for too long or too many quick presses it will disconnect your controller from the console. I personally hate this type of code. What some people have added to this basic style is: Dual trigger = both trigger rapidfire, great for Halo. Burst = rapidfire a limited amount of shots, making it like the M16. Akimbo = make both weapons fire by only pressing the right trigger wile dual-wielding. If you add a little more code, you can change the basic shape of the rapidfire signal. This was done to trick patches made by the game developers in order to shoot faster than standard rapidfire signals. Basically, you have the 'pressed' time of the signal longer or shorter than the 'released' time of the signal. All of these options are simply code and add no cost to the setup. Usually you wire one pin to the controllers LEDs in order to blink the LED to show what mode you are in. You can also wire a free pin to one of the controllers buttons and be able to add 'glitches'. Common glitches are: JITTER = This is a rapid timed press of the Y button to make you switch weapons in between shots. Its more like Y-Y-R trigger. This creates the effect that you switch away from your current weap, then back to it again and then fire one shot before repaeting. This ends up with a faster rate of fire than allowable from the game developers, but makes the aim jitter so much it is pretty worthless. But mod shops market it like its something you need, and it only works for one or two games. DROPSHOT = Forcing the player to crouch at the same time as bursting the fire. Supposedly makes you harder to hit and helps with recoil. RAPIDRELOAD = If you time your ammo perfectly, this will reload your weap a partial second faster. It is great if you are reloading at exactly the same time as the guy in front of you and you both have no ammo in your pistol and the moons are aligned and the universe is perfect with the timing of your network, then you will win the showdown by 0.2 seconds. Glitches. They sound great, but have no practical purpose. Quite frankly, it is a marketing tactic used to garner sales based upon the ignorance of the buyer.
Another common code is Gameplay. This one has one (or two) tact switches added to the bottom of the controller. This allows you to quickly turn the rapdifire on or off by tapping the button. Its a better way to manipulate the 'modes' while actually playing the game. Switching through 4 modes with the SYNC button is bad while your actually playing the game. You change modes by holding the tact down for more than a second.
Here is a video of it:
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Number of modes: The greatest travesty of rapidfire today is how many modes people offer. They now have 18 and 20 mode codes, like its a good thing. Why? Do you really want to press the button 15 times to get to mode 3 in the middle of a game? Have you actually tried it? Why is there an appeal for more modes? Its a ploy to get you to buy a crappy code. The idea is based upon the fact that most codes have a few modes that have been programmed for only 2 or 3 games. 18 modes means you have modes for a bunch of games. This comes down to who has the best speeds for which game is popular right now, and how long will your controller be useful. More modes means your code will have a better chance at working on games that come out tomorrow. Lets face it, if you buy a controller, you have no way of changing what those speeds are with these codes. If you make your own, you still have to take the controller apart to reprogram it. Having more than 3 or 4 modes is pretty worthless under any concept. Even if the modes are based on options (1 = akimbo, 2 = burst, 3 = dropshot, etc). This leads to the next set of codes: Adjustable firerates.
Adjustable controllers are a must. Even if you program your own, you do not want to crack the controller open all the time. The first type of adjustable is self-editing. This means the controller has a way to enter an 'editing mode' where you can adjust the firerate and save it under at least one mode. This feature has the second-best chance of being future-proof to work with new games. Now you do not have to open your controller when the new game comes out in 6 months. Most sellers have ONE of thier modes as adjustable. They still have 17 other 'set speed' modes because lets face it, they think your stupid and they give you one adjustable mode but still keep using the 'I have more modes than the other guy' marketing to trick you into buying thier controller. If you can change the speed, why would you have anything other than one mode? You can change it to any speed you want. Here are some arguments made by these sellers as to why: Seller: Programming takes too long, you want to switch modes fast. Buyer: If the speed is game specific, why do I want to switch the mode fast if I am changing the game I am playing? Seller: each mode has a different glitch. Mode 1 is dropshot, mode 2 is rapid-reload. Buyer: So why dont you make it that you turn the glitches on or off along with changing the speed, instead of having a bunch of modes to cycle through? Seller: Adjusting modes is complex, you wont get it right and takes too long to figure it out. Buyer: I am not that stupid, dont treat me like a child.
A better code would be to have a very few modes. In each mode you could set the speed and turn options and glitches on or off. You should be able to adjust how many modes you want also. Think about it, you decide how you want the controller to act like, completely. If you start playing a new game, change everything about the controller. Dont force yourself into cycling through 20 modes. Dont believe that these people have something special you dont know about. I personally kept using 2 modes: ON and off. I would change the speed when I changed the game. It is a pain to cycle through 4 modes and count LED flashes when your still online. You want to know the real funny thing? If you think this idea for a code sounds like the right way to go, wouldnt it be nice if someone offered it? How about for free? Well guess what, its called FLEX, and its been free for over a year.
Here is how it works:
The last code that would be better: Programmable through the PC. Self-editing does have the drawback of being cumbersome, even though you should not be editing multiple times a day. But if you wanted things to be that much more faster and easier, then changing the settings on the controller using a point-and-click interface would be the ultimate way. Here is a sample of what I mean:
That particular design is still not advanced enough. The best design would be in such a way to accept firmware updates (just like your ipod nano). If there was any true reason to update the code in the chip, why not be able to do it yourself with a USB cable and clicking a button?
Hopefully you have read this far, and now are better armed with how most people have been taken advantage of when it comes to rapidfire controllers. Take a GOOD look at what people offer. One thing to consider is that customer service also plays a part in this. But weight that against how much you pay for that service. In the case of the biggest retailers out there (Evil, Silent, Gamerz, Rapid, Voodoo, etc) they charge over $100 for what can be done in a teenagers basement with 5 minutes and $27 (controller cost included). So for $73+ you pay for 5 minutes of work, some extra cost in 'nicer' packaging, the cost to accept credit cards, the cost to run a website with maybe some forum support, and better customer service. What customer service though? Will they replace the controller if it no longer works on new games? No. Will they replace the controller if it stops working after 6 months? How many controllers really break within 6 months? Do they reprogam the controller after you buy it? No. Do they update it? No. Will they sell you another controller when a new game comes out after 6 months? Yes. Will they take your old controller in trade? No. So, what did that $68 get you for in service? You can tell me about stories of how "when something was messed up, they quickly fixed it". They should do that for free, its part of the cost of labor!
Quite frankly, the only reason why they can charge these prices and get away with it is.........people keep buying it and they get away with it. If you judge how 'good' a seller is based upon the complexity of their website and how professional they market themselves, just remember the golden rule of the business model: All costs of the business are paid for by the customer. You pay for all the expensive advertising the 'best' sellers spend money on, you pay for the retail packaging, you pay for the website fees acrued. And after all of that, they still make a profit of over $50 a controller.
OK, I am done. Now onto the tutorial.
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#3. Posted:
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Joined: Jul 16, 201014Year Member
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Thats alot of info, no wonder youve been here two years and didnt post much, lol, Good post though im gonna look into this
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#4. Posted:
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Joined: Mar 23, 200915Year Member
Posts: 35
Reputation Power: 3
This tutorial will show how to make your own modded controller. The chip used will be the most common one: The PIC12F683 I/P 8pin DIP package microcontroller. We will start with BMU2 for an example. You can download the code and install pics here:
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You can purchase these from Ebay, Mouser, Digikey, Sparkfun, just to name a few places. They are dirt cheap. What you are going to need is a PIC programmer. Which programmer you use will also determine the software used to program with. One of the most common programmer is the JDM design. You can buy these for $10 or make your own using a few parts. Here are a couple of places to find them:
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You can also build your own:
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The software you use to program the PIC is called ICProg. You can also use WINpic800.
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Here is a tutorial on how to use the programmer:
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To use winpic800:
1: Download and install.
2: Run WinPIC800 and goto the menu Idioma->English to change language.
3: Goto Settings->Hardware. Select JDM Programmer and your COM port. Click save. Click Apply edits.
4: Select PIC 12F from the top dropdown menu.
5: Select 12F683 from the lower dropdown menu.
6: Open your hex file. The assembly instruction should appear on the main screen.
7: Click the button to Program. When it is done, click the button to verify.
You will have to search google on troubleshooting, its a webpage by itself and there is already a lot in this thread.
The bad part of these programmer is that they need a real RS232 serial port. Not the USB adapters. They take 13 volts from the serial port to make the programming happen. If your computer has a serial port, then you have a chance of getting this to work, otherwise forget about it. Even if you do have a serial port, there have been websites dedicated to problems of getting the JDM programmer to work. Take your chances.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Another programmer is the PicKit2 programmer. It is a USB programmer supported by Microchip. There are clones for real cheap on Ebay, or you can buy a factory one directly from Microchip themsleves for a little more. You can program the hex code either through MPLAB IDE (the software used to write code) or a stand-alone utility found here:
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Documentation and support forums can be found here:
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
What you need to be careful of is that you can repeatably verify the code in the chip. This is basically having the software read the contents of the chip and comparing it to the file. If you do it right, then you should be able to verify the chip and you will be certain that the PIC will work correctly after it is installed. If something looks funny during this process, then save yourself some headache and verify the program is correct.
You can find the original and clones here:
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
You can purchase these from Ebay, Mouser, Digikey, Sparkfun, just to name a few places. They are dirt cheap. What you are going to need is a PIC programmer. Which programmer you use will also determine the software used to program with. One of the most common programmer is the JDM design. You can buy these for $10 or make your own using a few parts. Here are a couple of places to find them:
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
You can also build your own:
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
The software you use to program the PIC is called ICProg. You can also use WINpic800.
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Here is a tutorial on how to use the programmer:
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
To use winpic800:
1: Download and install.
2: Run WinPIC800 and goto the menu Idioma->English to change language.
3: Goto Settings->Hardware. Select JDM Programmer and your COM port. Click save. Click Apply edits.
4: Select PIC 12F from the top dropdown menu.
5: Select 12F683 from the lower dropdown menu.
6: Open your hex file. The assembly instruction should appear on the main screen.
7: Click the button to Program. When it is done, click the button to verify.
You will have to search google on troubleshooting, its a webpage by itself and there is already a lot in this thread.
The bad part of these programmer is that they need a real RS232 serial port. Not the USB adapters. They take 13 volts from the serial port to make the programming happen. If your computer has a serial port, then you have a chance of getting this to work, otherwise forget about it. Even if you do have a serial port, there have been websites dedicated to problems of getting the JDM programmer to work. Take your chances.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Another programmer is the PicKit2 programmer. It is a USB programmer supported by Microchip. There are clones for real cheap on Ebay, or you can buy a factory one directly from Microchip themsleves for a little more. You can program the hex code either through MPLAB IDE (the software used to write code) or a stand-alone utility found here:
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Documentation and support forums can be found here:
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
What you need to be careful of is that you can repeatably verify the code in the chip. This is basically having the software read the contents of the chip and comparing it to the file. If you do it right, then you should be able to verify the chip and you will be certain that the PIC will work correctly after it is installed. If something looks funny during this process, then save yourself some headache and verify the program is correct.
You can find the original and clones here:
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
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#5. Posted:
Status: Offline
Joined: Jan 29, 201113Year Member
Posts: 1,589
Reputation Power: 61
Status: Offline
Joined: Jan 29, 201113Year Member
Posts: 1,589
Reputation Power: 61
pretty good job +repped
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#6. Posted:
Status: Offline
Joined: Mar 23, 200915Year Member
Posts: 35
Reputation Power: 3
The next step is to disassemble your controller:
First, you need to determine which type you have. You can download this PDF install guide to see some pictures of identifying your controller and where to drill holes/hotglue, etc:
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Depending on which code you are using, you will now drill a hole in the controller for the tact switch. (See above PDF).
I dont have my links anymore on the installation tutorial, so I will have to link to Harriss tutorial (he did a good job, and the thread has a lot of good questions/answers too). A good tutorial for the steps to install the chip can be found at Xscene:
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Probably the best online tutorial for soldering can be found at Sparkfun:
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Pictures for the BMU2 install:
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
You can adjust the speeds of the code to what you want. You will need to install MPLAB form microchip. Two good tutorials can be found here:
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
And a Youtube video:
First, you need to determine which type you have. You can download this PDF install guide to see some pictures of identifying your controller and where to drill holes/hotglue, etc:
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Depending on which code you are using, you will now drill a hole in the controller for the tact switch. (See above PDF).
I dont have my links anymore on the installation tutorial, so I will have to link to Harriss tutorial (he did a good job, and the thread has a lot of good questions/answers too). A good tutorial for the steps to install the chip can be found at Xscene:
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Probably the best online tutorial for soldering can be found at Sparkfun:
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Pictures for the BMU2 install:
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
You can adjust the speeds of the code to what you want. You will need to install MPLAB form microchip. Two good tutorials can be found here:
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
And a Youtube video:
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#7. Posted:
Status: Offline
Joined: Mar 23, 200915Year Member
Posts: 35
Reputation Power: 3
Codes:
I have posted BMU2 earlier. Here are other I have done:
GameplayRF: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
These next two support WAW patching and burst firing:
BMU3: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
GameplayRF2: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
And finally FLEX: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
And the user manual: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
FLEX is a completely adjustable rapidfire. You choose 1 thru 4 modes, and each mode you can: Set the speed. Set the signal. Set burstmode and how many shots bursted. Set left trigger enabled RF.
The install pics:
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
An optional LED install method is to piggyback 0603 LEDs onto the stock ones:
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Or for a multi-color LED install option (you will get red, green, and yellow colors with the modes):
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
There are also codes out there for jitter fire and other glitches that are free. Just search google, now that you know what you are looking for.
I do not expect many of you to actually go through the motions of making your own. If you do, this should help you. What I am hoping to achieve is getting everyone to realize that what these forums are filled with is not even close to 'the best'. Dozens of modes, codes where you cannot change the speed, websites that offer pretty pictures and professional artwork but simple and basic rapidifre designs are a complete waste of your time. You could get the same thing for free (and by doing so, you are your own warrantee in the future). You should expect more from the people who sell this stuff. For a brief time, I marketed that 'Final Rapdifire Controller' as seen in one of the above Youtube videos where you completely changed the controller through your PC easy as point-and-click. That controller was sold for $90 each installed. It required over an hours worth of labor (sanding down LEDS, cutting out the guide button, moving the motor rumble header, Drilling out the jack, assembling the programming cable, assembling the SMD PCB, all before actualy soldering anything). The whole thing was meant to make it perfect for the customer at the cost of more labor to install it. These people who get called 'the best' on these forums do everything they can to give you less so they can DO LESS.
Its time you should demand more from your controller. Think about what you would really want the controller to do, and tell thesze people thats what you want. Dont settle for what they are telling you is 'the best thing'. They should start earning what you pay by providing something that realy is beyond the 'norm'.
Oh, and if you think that someone offers something that you cannot find the open-source version of, just let me know. I will take a lunch or two and code up the opensource just to prove how easy it is. It may not be perfect at first (I dont have the time to play the game the glitch is meant for) but I can provide the basic code and where to change the timings so someone else can find the right number to make it perfect.
I have posted BMU2 earlier. Here are other I have done:
GameplayRF: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
These next two support WAW patching and burst firing:
BMU3: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
GameplayRF2: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
And finally FLEX: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
And the user manual: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
FLEX is a completely adjustable rapidfire. You choose 1 thru 4 modes, and each mode you can: Set the speed. Set the signal. Set burstmode and how many shots bursted. Set left trigger enabled RF.
The install pics:
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
An optional LED install method is to piggyback 0603 LEDs onto the stock ones:
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Or for a multi-color LED install option (you will get red, green, and yellow colors with the modes):
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
There are also codes out there for jitter fire and other glitches that are free. Just search google, now that you know what you are looking for.
I do not expect many of you to actually go through the motions of making your own. If you do, this should help you. What I am hoping to achieve is getting everyone to realize that what these forums are filled with is not even close to 'the best'. Dozens of modes, codes where you cannot change the speed, websites that offer pretty pictures and professional artwork but simple and basic rapidifre designs are a complete waste of your time. You could get the same thing for free (and by doing so, you are your own warrantee in the future). You should expect more from the people who sell this stuff. For a brief time, I marketed that 'Final Rapdifire Controller' as seen in one of the above Youtube videos where you completely changed the controller through your PC easy as point-and-click. That controller was sold for $90 each installed. It required over an hours worth of labor (sanding down LEDS, cutting out the guide button, moving the motor rumble header, Drilling out the jack, assembling the programming cable, assembling the SMD PCB, all before actualy soldering anything). The whole thing was meant to make it perfect for the customer at the cost of more labor to install it. These people who get called 'the best' on these forums do everything they can to give you less so they can DO LESS.
Its time you should demand more from your controller. Think about what you would really want the controller to do, and tell thesze people thats what you want. Dont settle for what they are telling you is 'the best thing'. They should start earning what you pay by providing something that realy is beyond the 'norm'.
Oh, and if you think that someone offers something that you cannot find the open-source version of, just let me know. I will take a lunch or two and code up the opensource just to prove how easy it is. It may not be perfect at first (I dont have the time to play the game the glitch is meant for) but I can provide the basic code and where to change the timings so someone else can find the right number to make it perfect.
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#8. Posted:
Status: Offline
Joined: Mar 23, 200915Year Member
Posts: 35
Reputation Power: 3
Changed title to see what happens ;)
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#9. Posted:
Status: Offline
Joined: Apr 06, 201113Year Member
Posts: 3,190
Reputation Power: 157
Status: Offline
Joined: Apr 06, 201113Year Member
Posts: 3,190
Reputation Power: 157
Why do you keep adding to your post with replies?
Just put it all under the top post lol.
But still good though +rep.
Just put it all under the top post lol.
But still good though +rep.
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#10. Posted:
Status: Offline
Joined: Jan 15, 201113Year Member
Posts: 87
Reputation Power: 3
Status: Offline
Joined: Jan 15, 201113Year Member
Posts: 87
Reputation Power: 3
Great post. At first it was "oh I could do this" then "oh shit I'm f*cked."
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