Elite's Tutorial to Simple Xbox 360 Rapid Fire Mod
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I'm sure you have seen what a modded (modified) controller can do if you have played online on games such as Call Of Duty, Halo 3, Gears Of War or Grand Theft Auto.

Here is an extremely simple modification to enable you to shoot your Barret .50 cal like a P90.

UPDATE: Okay, there seems to a problem with certain types of controllers. Apparently there are controllers that use PWM and others are Matrix type. To determine which type yours is, check to see if you have a crystal on your board, as you can see in the bottom right of picture 1. if you have one, your good to go, if you don't, then this mod will not work and the button just acts as another trigger.

Step 1 Ingredients
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First off you will need,

A TT8 Torx Driver
A Small Push Button Switch
Some Thin Wire, Any will do (I used IDE Cable)
An Xbox 360 Controller (Wired or Wireless, it works the same)
Soldering Iron
A Drill and Drill bit (To match the diameter of the thread on your switch)
Some form of surface to work on. (I used a window ledge, I suggest you don't)

Step 2 Dismantle
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Taking the battery out reveals another screw, its underneath the barcode sticker.

There are 7 screws to remove, so grab that Torx driver and twist! (Anti -Clock-wise)

With the buttons facing DOWN , separate the two halves carefully, paying attention to the motors.

Step 3 Drill
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Find the best place to put your switch, choose very carefully, as once you've drilled you cant remove the hole from your 30 Controller!

Once you have found a place, put the two halves back together and see if there is enough room for your switch to go in.

If there is, well done. Remove the circuit board so that it doesn't get damaged, then you can drill the hole and improve 32 worth of electronics.

Step 4 Plug it in
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Put the switch in your new hole. Make sure that you orient the pins so that they are not getting bent or squashed when the controller is back together. I had to remove some of the motor holder to fit my switch in.

Step 5 Soldering Time
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Heat up the soldering iron, not too hot or else it might break some components.

Point one and two are in pictures 2 and 3 respectively.
An final overview is in picture 4.
5 and 6 show the switch.
7 shows what happens when your iron is too hot and you take too long to make a joint.

Make sure wiring runs stay clear of the black button pads, analogue stick movement and screw holes.







Step 6 Put It All Back
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Are the switch pins going to make contact with anything on the other half of the controller when reassembled?

Are all of the wires free from places of movement or screw holes?

Are the solder joints correct and not dry?

Are all of the annoying black pieces of the controller back on their positioning pins?
(they are annoying as they have a habit of coming off the pins half way through putting it back together)

Has your soldering iron made suitably sized black marks on your window ledge?

Four out of five is good enough to continue.

For a quick test, replace the battery and depress your switch all the way. If the player one led lights up very dimly, then the mod worked!

Now try putting it back together without breaking anything.

Step 7 Done!
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If you are having trouble putting it all back together, try wigging it while applying gentle force, and make sure all wires and button rubbers are not obstructing anything.

Here it is in action!


Step 8 How it works

This works because to light the LEDs (on some boards with the crystal described in the intro), the Xbox uses PWM. Which means pulsed width modulation.
Basically, it send the power to the LEDs in quick pulses, so this mod uses them pulses to trick the Xbox into thinking you are pressing the trigger really quickly.

Elite.
Hopes this helps out.