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Intel Core i3-2120 CPU: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]

Gigabyte GA-H61M-DS2 Motherboard: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]

Sapphire Radeon HD 7770 Graphics Card: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]

PNY Optima 4GB RAM: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]

Western Digital Caviar Blue 500GB Hard Drive: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]

Cooler Master eXtreme Power Plus 500W Power Supply: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]

Antec Three Hundred Case: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]

Sony DVD Burner: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]

Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit Operating System: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]

Molex Adapter: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]

Determine Which Mounting Holes You will be Using

About the only difficult part of installing a motherboard is matching up the mounting holes in the mobo with the ones on the case.

In theory, the mounting hole locations are standardized within a given form factor; but in practice, it's a rare thing to find a case and motherboard whose mounting holes exactly correspond. More often, you will have to look at the mounting holes in the motherboard to determine which mounting holes on the case you will be using.

It's good practice to use all of the motherboard's mounting holes, but you probably won't use all of the case's mounting holes. Chances are that the case will have "extra" holes to accomodate different boards.



Installing the Standoffs

Once you have determined which mounting holes you will be using, you will need to insert standoffs in the corresponding holes in the computer case. Chances are that some of them will already be installed, and you will have to install the rest.

There are several types of standoffs, with the ones on the right being the most common. The purpose of standoffs is to separate the back of the motherboard from the metal case. You install the standoffs in the mounting holes in the case that correspond to the holes in your motherboard.

If you don't install the standoffs, then you will most likely damage your motherboard when you try to install it.

The standoffs are screwed or inserted into the chassis, and the mobo in turn is attached to the standoffs through the mounting holes in the motherboard. This creates a small space that prevents the back of the motherboard from shorting out against the metal case.

Again, don't be surprised if your motherboard has "extra" holes for which there are no corresponding holes in the case. This is normal. Very few cases and motherboards will match exactly. As long as you use all the mounting holes that do match, you'll be fine. (And there's no charge for the extra holes.)

Standoffs must NEVER be inserted into any of the "extra" holes, however. Standoffs installed in holes on the case that don't have corresponding holes in the motherboard can cause the motherboard to short out.

Finally, don't over-tighten the standoffs. Hand-tight plus a smidgen is enough. Most cases are made of thin metal that can strip if you over-tighten the standoffs.



Install the Motherboard

Once you have the correct standoffs inserted, lay the motherboard into the case, line up the mounting holes and the rear-panel connectors, and screw it down.

Usually, the easiest way to install a motherboard is to lay the motherboard over the standoffs slightly forward of the rear panel connectors, then slide it back into the rear panel connectors until the mounting holes line up. Make sure that you're not snagging any wires, then screw the board down.

Don't over tighten-the screws! You will crack the motherboard if you do, and then it will be useless! The screws should be snug, not excessively tight. Use a standard screwdriver, not an electric one. This is delicate stuff we're doing here.



Attach the Power Connectors

Finally, connect the ATX power connector from the power supply to the motherboard. Do this now. If you forget about it and later fire up your computer while the ATX connector is not connected to anything, then you will fry your computer's power supply.

On Pentium 4 and most other high-powered computers, you will also have to connect the P4 connector to the motherboard. You may also have to connect power to some high-end video cards and certain other components later on in the assembly process.

If you're not sure where the connections are, read your motherboard's manual.



At this point, take a look at the motherboard and case and once again review your assembly sequence plan to see what should be installed next. In our case, the next step was Installing the Processor.

Anti Static Precautions

Processors are extremely sensitive to static charges and physical shock. A static charge that's too small for a human being to even feel can completely destroy a processor. In addition, processors can be damaged by rough handling or being dropped.

So never handle a processor roughly, never touch the pins, and never handle it unless you are using proper anti-static precautions.

Handle the processor carefully, holding it only by the edges. Set it down only on an anti-static mat or on the foam pad that it was shipped in. Be kind to your processor, and your processor will be kind to you.



Inserting the Processor Correctly

Processor sockets are keyed to prevent improper installation. But because they're so delicate and the pins so fine, it's really, really easy to permanently damage them if you're not careful.

Notice in the picture on the right that both the processor and the socket have two corners without pins. This is to prevent the processor from being installed the wrong way. All processors have some system to prevent improper insertion, but they're not all the same. Sometimes you have to look at the pins, and sometimes you have to line up an arrow. Whatever the case, look carefully before you insert the processor to make sure that you're inserting it correctly. If your processor came with a manual, read it.

Modern processor sockets have a ZIF (Zero Insertion Force) design. If the processor is aligned properly with the socket, gravity alone should cause it to drop right into the socket. You should never need to use force greater than a gentle nudge with a single finger (and the pinky finger, at that) to insert a modern processor. Never, never, never.

Some processors have no pins. Instead, they have little bumps that make contact with the CPU socket. They look like pimples and dimples. This design makes it nearly impossible to break the chip while installing it, but it does sometimes cause problems if dust, hair, or other debris finds its way to the socket. Canned air solves the problem.

Most processors are secured by a bail mounted alongside the socket. Once you've lined up the pins and allowed the processor to drop into the socket, check to make sure that the processor is fully inserted and not sitting crookedly.

Once you are absolutely certain that the processor is seated properly, gently close the bail to secure the processor.

If you encounter too much resistance, stop and check again to make sure that the processor is lined up correctly. If you close the bail while the processor is not seated properly, you probably will ruin both the motherboard and the processor.

If you're unsure about anything at all, please ask a question on the Computer Assembly page of our Home-built Computer Forum before you do anything that could damage your processor.





Finished? Congratulations! Now take a breather and a swig of your favorite beverage and prepare for the next step: Installing the CPU Cooler.

Parts of a CPU Cooler

Most CPU coolers are composed of three parts: A fan, a heat sink, and a mounting device that attaches the cooler assembly to the motherboard directly over the processor. A fourth element of the cooling system is something called "heat sink compound" or "thermal jelly," which is applied between the heat sink and the die of the processor to improve heat transfer from the processor to the heat sink.

Many heat sinks come with a patch of heat sink compound pre-applied to the heat sink itself. The actual compound is covered with a little plastic tab during shipping. If you are using a heat sink with pre-applied heat sink compound, then you need to peel the protective tab off the heat sink prior to installing the cooler. Forgetting this simple step can cause serious damage to your processor.

If your heat sink doesn't have pre-applied compound, you will need to apply a thin coating of heat sink compound directly to the processor die. This also applies if, for some reason, you have removed and are replacing the heat sink.

The old compound must be completely are carefully removed and new compound applied before replacing the cooler. Don't use steel wool or abrasives of any sort! Just wipe the jelly off the processor and the heat sink with a clean, lint-free cloth or paper towel.

I suggest you use a high-quality thermal jelly. Arctic Silver is my personal favorite. The difference in price is trivial, and high-quality thermal jelly will help keep your processor cool and comfy.

Be careful not to get any heat sink compound on the motherboard! Some compounds are conductive, and can short out the circuitry on the board. (Thanks for pointing out that omission to me, Bob.)



Mounting the CPU Cooler

The CPU cooler assembly is positioned over the processor and is usually secured to the motherboard by metal clips that hold the heat sink down tightly against the processor.

Notice that on bail-type sockets, both the socket and the heat sink are offset from center a little to accommodate the bail. Make sure you install the cooler with its offset on the same side as the offset on the socket.

Use a slotted screwdriver to gently, but firmly, hook the retaining clips under the tabs on the processor socket. Be very careful not to let the screwdriver slip. If it scratches the surface of the motherboard, the mobo could be ruined.

Some cooling assemblies use plastic clips that simply slide straight down over the processor and snap into place. These types of assemblies usually don't require any tools to install.

Don't forget to plug in the fan! In most cases, it will plug into a three-pin connector on the motherboard that is (appropriately enough) labeled "CPU Fan" in teensy-weensy letters. This is to allow the computer to control the fan speed based upon how hard the processor is working.

If you want, you can "hotwire" the fan using an adaptor that directly connects it to the power supply, which causes it to spin at full speed all the time. I don't recommend this for most users. It creates a lot of noise, uses more power, and causes the fan to wear out sooner. Some people also believe you can "overcool" the CPU by running the fan at full speed all the time. I personally don't think that's possible unless you're using the computer outdoors in Antarctica, but some people disagree.

In most cases, you also can disable the fan speed control in CMOS setup, which has the same effect as hotwiring the fan, and which I also don't recommend.



Chipset Coolers

Most modern motherboards also have a chipset cooler, at least on the Northbridge chipset. These are almost always factory-installed and are adequate for all but the most intensive use. Just blow the fan out with canned air once in a while, and replace it if it stops spinning or starts making noises.

If you do find it necessary to replace or upgrade the factory-installed chipset cooler, the process is basically the same as installing a CPU cooler. The main difference is that chipset coolers usually are fastened to the motherboard using spring fasteners or plastic retainers rather than a metal clip. You may need to have access to the back of the motherboard to remove the fasteners, and you may have to install new fasteners if the old ones can't be removed without breaking them



Liquid CPU Cooling Systems

Water cooling is not a new idea. Liquid cooling systems have been around since the earliest days of mainframe computing, when every IT department had a plumber on call. Nowadays, liquid CPU cooling systems are popular mainly among PC builders who use their computers for gaming or other processor-intensive applications.

Not being much of a gamer myself (although I do love Microsoft Flight Simulator), my cooling needs tend not to be very intense. And frankly, I really haven't come across a system that worked so hard that a good fan-type cooler wasn't enough. Also, I'm a little skittish about mixing water and electronics; so most of the time I use good, old-fashioned air cooling.

But if you plan to overclock (also something I frown upon) or otherwise push your CPU to the edge, then liquid cooling can buy you a few critical degrees of extra cooling. That can make a difference while you are, for example, in the heat of battle, saving the world from invaders from outer space.

If you have any questions, please feel free to ask them on the Computer Assembly page of our Home-built Computer Forum.

Okay, now that we've installed the cooler, let's move on to the next step: Installing RAM.

Proper Insertion of the RAM Modules

RAM modules are keyed with little notches that fit over corresponding tabs in the RAM slots. We've circled them in the picture on the right (click the picture for a close-up).

Before inserting the RAM module, make sure that the notches and tabs are correctly lined up. If there are more notches than there are tabs (or vice-versa), then you have the wrong RAM for your motherboard. Same thing goes for if the notches and tabs don't match up. You have the wrong RAM, and all the force in the world won't make it the right RAM.

Once you're sure you have the right RAM, to actually insert it, simply push it firmly, straight down into the slot, and push the retainer clips inward. That's it.



Which Slots to Use

If you are using SDRAM or single-channel DDR-SDRAM, then it usually doesn't matter which modules go into which slots. But a few motherboards require that you start with the first slot and fill them in order, so you may as well do it that way.

If you are using DDR memory in dual-channel configuration, however, then you must fill the first slot of each of the two RAM banks with an identical stick of RAM; and you must do the same with the second slots of each bank, if you are using them. The RAM sticks in each bank must be identical to each other. In addition, although it is not required, I recommend that the two banks also be identical.

Huh?

Okay, in other words, a motherboard that supports dual-channel DDR will usually have two (or more) RAM banks, which usually are identified by different color slots. Each bank has two slots, and both slots in each bank must have identical RAM. So if you put a 1 GB stick of PC2-5300 667MHz DDR2 in the first slot, then you must also put a 1 GB stick of PC2-5300 667MHz DDR2 in the second slot in order to use the dual-channel configuration.

If you choose to use the additional banks, then the same rule applies. Each stick in the bank must be identical, but the banks need not be identical to each other. In practice, however, I usually just fill all the slots with identical RAM sticks. Makes life easier, and I find I get far fewer conflicts this way.

When using SDRAM or DDR-SDRAM, any unused RAM slots are simply left empty. But if you are using RAMBUS RIMM modules, then you will have to install "continuity modules" in any unused RIMM slots. Remember: RAMBUS modules must be installed in identical pairs.



Manufacturers and Speeds

In theory, it shouldn't matter if the RAM modules installed in a computer are made by different manufacturers, as long as the type and speed are the same. There are standards for this sort of things, so memory from different manufacturers should be compatible. But sometimes subtle differences between manufacturers can cause problems; so I recommend that you purchase RAM made by the same manufacturer, if possible.

Also in theory, when different speed RAM modules are used, all of the RAM should clock to the speed of the slowest module. But in reality, I've found that mixing RAM speeds sometimes causes system instability. I've had plenty of cases where RAM sticks that tested just fine alone wouldn't play well together. So I strongly recommend that all of the RAM installed in your computer be of the same speed.

In fact, in practice, I just use all identical sticks in any given computer. Whenever possible, I'll even remove perfectly good RAM when doing an upgrade, just so all the sticks I install are identical. (And again, you must use RAM pairs of identical size and speed when using RAMBUS or dual-channel DDR.)

Selecting the right kind of RAM can be confusing. For the latest information about RAM, as well as for help deciding what kind and how much RAM you need for your computer, post your questions on the Computer Memory page of our Home-built Computer Forum.



Now that you've installed your computer's RAM, let's move on to the next step: Installing Expansion Cards.

Proper Insertion of Expansion Cards

Like RAM, expansion cards and slots are keyed. They have little notches with corresponding tabs in the slot that are designed to prevent you from installing the wrong card.

So if the card doesn't seem to fit, check those notches and tabs. Don't break out a hammer and try to pound it in. You probably are trying to insert the wrong kind of card (or insert the card in the wrong kind of slot).

Notice in the picture on the right that the AGP video slot is set back from the rest of the slots and is of a different size. In addition, the various ridges, tabs, and so forth on the card and the slot are intended to help prevent incorrect insertion or incompatible cards. You should read the documentation for your motherboard and cards to make sure they are compatible.



The card shown in this picture is a network card that fits into the PCI slot. Notice that it is keyed to the slot. (Also note that the card is only slanted to make it easier for you to see the slot. Expansion cards, like RAM, are pushed straight down into their slots, like in the next picture down.)

It usually doesn't matter which PCI cards are installed in which slots. But sometimes it does, depending on how a particular motherboard and OS manage shared resources. So before installing PCI cards, check the motherboard and expansion card manuals for any recommendations for slot assignments; and if one of more of your cards don't work (or if they cause system instability), try changing the slots before you trash the cards. Sometimes that's all it takes.



Once you have determined which cards will be installed in which slots, actually installing them is simple. Place the computer on its side so the slots on the motherboard face up, align the card in the slot perpendicular to the motherboard (that is, straight up, because the computer is on its side), and push down until you feel the card "pop" into place.

You may have to use some oomph here. If the card doesn't seat itself using fingertip pressure, place your palm over the card and push down firmly and evenly until you feel the card pop into place. But first check the slots, notches, and tabs to make sure you're not trying to install the card in the wrong slot.



Finally, secure the card into place by screwing the card's metal bracket into the screw hole over the expansion slot opening on the back of the case. Some cases don't use screws, and instead have some sort of metal or plastic clip that holds the card (or all of them, sometimes) in the motherboard. Usually this is obvious, but check the manual that came with the case if you're confuzled.

It's a good idea to save the slot covers to cover the holes in case you ever decide to remove the card. Using electrical tape looks tacky and unprofessional.

Some cards may have additional connections that have to be made, such as the cable that connects a CD-ROM drive to the sound card, or a power connector for some high-powered video cards or audio break-out cards. See the card's documentation for detailed instructions.



Now let's proceed to the next step, Installing the Hard Drives.

Installing Your Computer's Hard Drive



There are several different types of hard drives you can use in your homebuilt computer. At the time of this revision, EIDE drives are being used less and less, and SATA (Serial ATA) drives are becoming the new standard. And of course, SCSI drives are still available, though few home users choose SCSI because of their high cost.

This page illustrates the installation of both EIDE and SATA drives. SATA hadn't really caught on when this computer was built. Also, installing an EIDE hard drive is slightly more involved than installing a SATA drive, and some people still use them. Although the physical installation is the same (there are only so many ways to tighten four screws, after all), SATA drives use different cables and connectors, and SATA drives don't require master/slave relationships, and therefore have no jumpers to set.



IDE Hard Drive Configuration

If you are using EIDE drives, then you will have to set the jumpers to match the drive's configuration before you physically install the drives in the computer. If you haven't yet done this, then please click here for detailed instructions before proceeding any further. (And if you're using SATA drives, ignore all this talk of jumpers.)



Physically Installing a Hard Drive

The case that we're using has a detachable "cage" for the hard drives. The cage is first removed from the case, the drives are mounted into the cage, and the cage is reattached to the case. This design helps reduced scraped knuckles from working in tight spaces and avoids the need to remove the side of the case behind the motherboard to access the mounting screws.

I always prefer this sort of case design, all else being equal. It makes it a lot easier to remove and replace the drives if the need arises or if you want to upgrade in the future. But if you plan on installing a lot of drives in your new computer, then you're probably better off with a server-style case that has built-in bays for them.





The hard drive is mounted in the cage using four mounting screws. Make sure that you use the correct holes so that the cage will fit back in the case properly, and don't force the screws! Most hard drives are made of soft alloys that strip easily. If the screw doesn't want to turn, try turning it backwards until it seats itself.

If you are mounting a front-accessible drive (such as a floppy drive or ZIP drive) in the same cage, then make sure you mount the front-accessible drive in the position behind the opening in the front of the case.

Again, don't over tighten the screws! Hand-tight is plenty.





Once you have screwed the drive into the cage, re-attach the drive cage into the computer case. (Click here for a handy trick to insert those hard-to-reach screws.)

A lot of people ask me, "Is it really necessary to use all four screws to mount the hard drive?" The answer, alas, usually is yes. Using four screws reduces the chances of annoying buzzing caused by vibrations. So even though it can be a pain to reach the screw holes sometimes, you really should try to use all four mounting screws. It's just more professional.

Some cases use friction mounts or rubber bushings to reduce vibration. Using them will help reduce your computer's noise and may help protect the hard drive from vibrations.



Connecting EIDE (PATA) Hard Drive Cables

Now we're ready to connect the data cables and power cables. EIDE drives use either flat, ribbon cables, or the newer-style rounded cables. SATA drives use thinner, flexible cables that are easier to route through the case and that improve airflow.

For this demonstration, we're using old-fashioned ribbon cables. EIDE hard drives use an 80-conductor cable that usually has color-coded connectors. The black connector gets connected to the master drive, the gray to the slave drive (if any), and the blue to the motherboard. If the connectors are not color-coded, then the one off-center in the middle gets connected to the slave drive, the one on the end closest to the one in the middle gets connected to the master drive, and the one on the end farthest from the middle connector gets connected to the motherboard or IDE controller card.

Let's pause for a moment to clarify the difference between primary and secondary, versus master and slave. Some people are uncomfortable with the "master" and "slave" terminology, and use "primary" and "secondary" instead, thinking the two terms mean the same thing. But although they may be well-meaning, they're wrong. Primary and secondary refer to the two controllers on the motherboard, each of which can handle two drives: a master and a slave. So if all four drives are installed, there will be two masters and two slaves, one of each on both the primary and secondary controllers.

If it really bothers you, then just set all the drive jumpers to "CS" (for "Cable Select") and be done with it. That's what I usually do anyway. Just be sure to attach the correct connectors to each drive. Check here for more information about hard drive jumper settings.

You'll notice a colored stripe along one edge of the ribbon cable. This stripe must line up with pin Number 1 on both the IDE controller and the drive.

If pin Number 1 is not clearly marked on the device itself, then look in the manual or instructions. (On hard drives, pin 1 usually -- but not always -- is the one closest to the power connector.)

Most EIDE drive cables also have little raised grooves that fit into a little notch on the connector to insure that they are attached properly, but sometimes these are absent. If you attach the drive cable improperly, the drive will not work, and it may be permanently damaged.

Attach the cables firmly, but gently, by pushing them straight onto the connectors on the drives and the motherboard. Make sure that the pins line up before you push. If you break a pin, you will permanently ruin the drive or motherboard.



Connecting SATA Drives

If you are using a SATA (Serial ATA) drive, you don't have to worry about jumper settings or clumsy ribbon cables. The connectors on the motherboard will look like those in the picture on the right.

The first drive on the primary SATA controller should be connected to the system hard drive. Other than that, it really doesn't make much of a difference which connectors you use for the other drives.

Once again, the cable should be inserted straight down into the connector. Don't force it! If it doesn't seem to want to go in, make sure that the cable is properly oriented on the connector. SATA connectors are keyed to prevent improper insertion, so if it doesn't fit easily, you're probably trying to attach it backwards. If you force it, you'll break it, and your expensive new motherboard will be ruined.



Connecting the Power Cables

Finally, attach the power connectors to the drives.

Make sure that the power connectors are attached using the correct polarity. The sockets and connectors are shaped so that they should only fit the correct way unless you force them. So don't force them. If it doesn't fit without forcing, then you probably are trying to connect it backwards!

If you fire up the computer while a drive power connector is attached backwards, you will immediately and permanently destroy the drive, and possibly the power supply and/or the motherboard. So make sure you double check to make sure that all the connectors are attached properly. If you're not sure, please feel free to ask on the Computer Assembly page of our Home-built Computer Forum.



Next, let's look at Installing Auxiliary Drives.

There are several different types of auxiliary drives available for your homebuilt computer, such as CD-RW and DVD-RW drives, ZIP drives, tape drives, and drive-like devices such as card readers. The installation procedures for all of these devices are quite similar.

For this demonstration, we will be installing a CD-RW drive on an EIDE interface. Other types of interfaces also are available (SATA and SCSI). The process is exactly the same for installing a device like a card reader, except that there may be an additional connection to the USB header on the motherboard, or to an add-on card.

Like any other EIDE device, the first step in installing a CD-RW drive is to decide where it will be positioned in your particular drive configuration (that is, as a master or a slave), and to set the jumpers accordingly.

If you don't remember how to do this, please review the pages on hard drive configuration, which begin here. (And if you're using all SATA drives, ignore all this talk of masters, slaves, and jumpers.)

If you're unsure about anything, please feel free to post your questions on the Computer Assembly page of our Home-built Computer Forum.



Once you have decided on the drive configuration and have put the jumpers where they belong, you can begin to physically install the drives. When deciding where to place the drives, keep both convenience of use and cable routing in mind.

In most cases, You'll have to remove both a plastic cover and a metal plate from the drive bay where you will be installing the drive. Most often, you do this by removing the plastic cover, and then prying the metal plate from the rest of the case using a screwdriver.

Always wear eye protection when doing this, and please be careful not to cut yourself and get blood all over your new computer.



The next step is to insert the drive in the case. This is usually easiest to do from the front. Gently slide the drive back until it's faceplate is flush with the front of the case.

Be careful not to catch the drive's faceplate against the bezel of the case, or you may mar or damage the drive or the case. Also, don't push too hard. If the drive won't go in all the way, check to see what's blocking it before pushing like Samson.

Also be careful that the drive, once inserted, doesn't come too close to fans or push up against motherboard components. Some drives are slightly longer than average, and if you push them in fully without looking first, you may damage something on the motherboard.



Finally, secure the drive into place with the mounting screws, and connect the data and power cables.

The power and data cable connections are made in the same way as when installing a hard drive, but there's less consistency regarding power connectors on optical drives. Some still use Molex connectors, some use SATA connectors, and a few even use old-fashioned floppy-type power connectors.

Some optical drives also have a legacy audio connector that connects to the sound card. It's obsolete technology and chances are that you don't need it. But it does no harm to connect it if your sound card or motherboard has a connector for it.



Installing the Cabinet Fan

While we're at it, let's also install the cabinet fan. On our case, the cabinet fan is mounted in a fan shroud, which is in turn snapped into the computer case. Other cases simply have holes for the fan to be directly mounted to the case using special screws that come with the fan.

Some people always mount the cabinet fans to blow the air outward, to avoid sucking dust into the computer. Others say you should install the front panel fan to draw the air inward, and the rear panel fan to blow the air outward. We say it depends. If the computer is going to be used in a dusty place, point the fan to blow the air out to avoid dust. If not, then point it in to increase airflow.

Either way, a cabinet fan or two will go a long way towards keeping your computer cool and comfy.



Next, let's install the Panel Connectors

We're almost finished!

One somewhat tedious but vital step in assembling your homebuilt computer is to connect all those little wires for the front-panel switches and LED's from the case to the motherboard.

If you purchased a "barebones" computer with the motherboard already mounted, then this was probably done for you already. Otherwise, you'll have to do it yourself. Hopefully, you have good eyes and can read the tiny lettering on both the connectors and the motherboard. Otherwise, break out the bifocals!



Each switch and LED on the front panel has a connector attached to it that must be connected to the appropriate pins on the motherboard.

Some of the connectors (especially the LED's) are polarized, meaning that they have to be connected in the correct polarity. Polarized connectors have a little arrow or a plus sign by the positive wire, but no keyway to prevent you from attaching them backwards.

Long story short: If one of your LED's doesn't work (or if it stays lit all the time), chances are that you attached it backwards. If so, simply correct it.

Unfortunately, there's no universal rule about the positions of these pins. To determine the correct pins to attach the connectors to, you will have to consult the motherboard manual or look for the teensy lettering on the motherboard adjacent to the pins.



The basic front panel headers found on most motherboards are those for the PC speaker (the one built into most cases that beeps when the computer passes POST), the power switch, the reset switch, the hard drive activity LED, the power LED, and sometimes a few others. Of these, the leads for the LEDs must be connected in the proper polarity in order to work properly. The rest should be connected in the proper polarity just for the sake of doing things professionally, but they will work even if they're attached backwards.



Time to Double-Check

Before firing up your new computer, take a few moments to double check the following items:

Check all the fans to make sure they are properly connected. Starting up your computer with the CPU fan disconnected will likely kill your processor!

Make sure that all wires and cables are safely tied away from the fans. Neatness counts. Use plastic cable ties, not metal twist-ties. If you can't get plastic cable ties, then use electrical tape.

Check that all of the power and data cables are securely connected and are attached in the correct polarity.

Make sure that there are no tools, screws, or jumpers floating around in the case.

Check that all expansion cards and RAM modules are securely seated.

We're almost finished!

One somewhat tedious but vital step in assembling your homebuilt computer is to connect all those little wires for the front-panel switches and LED's from the case to the motherboard.

If you purchased a "barebones" computer with the motherboard already mounted, then this was probably done for you already. Otherwise, you'll have to do it yourself. Hopefully, you have good eyes and can read the tiny lettering on both the connectors and the motherboard. Otherwise, break out the bifocals!



Each switch and LED on the front panel has a connector attached to it that must be connected to the appropriate pins on the motherboard.

Some of the connectors (especially the LED's) are polarized, meaning that they have to be connected in the correct polarity. Polarized connectors have a little arrow or a plus sign by the positive wire, but no keyway to prevent you from attaching them backwards.

Long story short: If one of your LED's doesn't work (or if it stays lit all the time), chances are that you attached it backwards. If so, simply correct it.

Unfortunately, there's no universal rule about the positions of these pins. To determine the correct pins to attach the connectors to, you will have to consult the motherboard manual or look for the teensy lettering on the motherboard adjacent to the pins.



The basic front panel headers found on most motherboards are those for the PC speaker (the one built into most cases that beeps when the computer passes POST), the power switch, the reset switch, the hard drive activity LED, the power LED, and sometimes a few others. Of these, the leads for the LEDs must be connected in the proper polarity in order to work properly. The rest should be connected in the proper polarity just for the sake of doing things professionally, but they will work even if they're attached backwards.



Time to Double-Check

Before firing up your new computer, take a few moments to double check the following items:

Check all the fans to make sure they are properly connected. Starting up your computer with the CPU fan disconnected will likely kill your processor!

Make sure that all wires and cables are safely tied away from the fans. Neatness counts. Use plastic cable ties, not metal twist-ties. If you can't get plastic cable ties, then use electrical tape.

Check that all of the power and data cables are securely connected and are attached in the correct polarity.

Make sure that there are no tools, screws, or jumpers floating around in the case.

Check that all expansion cards and RAM modules are securely seated.

The moment of truth has arrived!

Before starting your computer for the first time, take a moment to check the computer parts yet again, making sure everything is properly connected and seated inside the box. Make sure the wires aren't blocking the fans. Makes sure there are no screws rattling around, and that you didn't leave any tools inside the machine.

I know, you did that already on the last page.

Do it again anyway. Humor me. And if you're confused about something, ask a question on the Computer Assembly page of our Home-built Computer Forum before moving on.

Otherwise, take a look on the back of the computer at the power supply. Chances are that you will see a little slider switch. Make sure that this switch is set to the correct voltage for your part of the world.

In the United States, the correct power setting will be 110 - 120 volts. In your part of the world, well, I have no idea. Ask someone local if you are unsure.

Plug the power cord into the power supply, and the other end into a surge-protected AC power source or a battery backup. Hook up the keyboard, monitor, and mouse to their appropriate connectors, and press the power button.

And pray.



The CMOS Setup Screen

If you have done everything correctly, after a few seconds you will hear a delightful beep as the computer passes its very first POST (Power-On-Self-Test), and you may be greeted by a screen that looks something like the one on the right. (You may have to press DELETE, F2, or some other key to get to this screen, depending on your motherboard. Read the manual.)

If you see something that looks like the picture shown here, then pat yourself on the back. And exhale. Your homebuilt computer is alive!

What you are seeing is something called the CMOS setup screen (or the BIOS setup screen). This is all your computer is capable of doing until you install an operating system on it, and the settings you select will affect the way your OS performs. Most computers come with CMOS settings designed for Windows, so you may not need to do anything at all.

That's good for me, because there are too many BIOS versions out there for me to really guide you along at this point. You'll simply have to read the motherboard manual and follow the instruction given there (ACK!).

But here are a few basic suggestions:

Start with the default settings. You can tweak them later if you like. Just check to make sure that the time and date are correct. You can use local time or Coordinated Universal Time (Greenwich time). Most Windows machines use local time, and most Unix and Linux machines use Greenwich time; but either will work either way.

If you don't know what something means, leave it alone. Use the default settings unless you know what you are doing.

Make sure that all of your drives are showing up. If not, then shut down the machine, unplug it, and check all your drive connections and jumper settings again.

Before installing your operating system, make sure that the CD-ROM drive is set as a bootable device (unless you will be booting from a floppy for the installation, in which case make sure the floppy drive is set as a bootable device). You can usually find the settings for the boot sequence in a section of the CMOS screen called, appropriately enough, Boot Sequence.

Make sure the date and time are correct before installing the OS. Incorrect dates and times can cause all sorts of problems.
Once you've finished CMOS setup, saved the settings, and rebooted, you're ready to install the operating system.



What if it doesn't work?

Stay calm. And don't cry. Unless you're a little kid. Then you can cry if you want.

The most common reason why a new computer doesn't work is that something isn't connected or seated properly. Here are a few very general tips about where to start looking:

If absolutely nothing happens when you push the power button, then chances are that the power supply isn't connected, the voltage switch is in the wrong position, or there is a toggle switch on the back of the power supply that is in the off position. (Check to make sure the computer is plugged into the AC power, as well. You wouldn't believe how often people forget to plug the machine in.)

If the LED's light up and the fans start turning, but nothing else happens, then most likely either the processor or the video card is not properly seated. Power down, reseat them, and try again.

If the computer begins to fire up, but then emits a shrill alarm, power down the computer and re-seat the RAM modules and peripheral cards. If that doesn't work, then check the motherboard manual to see what the alarm means. (Different combinations of beeps mean different things, but the codes are different on different motherboards, just to keep us geeks on our toes.)

Sometimes, two expansion cards sharing the same resources can prevent a computer from booting. If everything else checks out, remove all of the expansion cards except the video card, and try to boot up again. Then re-install the cards one-by-one, starting the machine after each card is installed to identify the problem card. Sometimes just moving the cards from one slot to another will make them work. Power down and unplug the computer every time you install or remove an expansion card.

Most motherboard manuals include helpful diagnostic and troubleshooting information. Consult the manual before you get depressed. Most problems are simple ones that can be easily corrected.