#51. Posted:
002
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I did this a couple weeks ago, but I switched the stainless steel fender flare bolts out for black ones. Now the only chrome left on the truck is the rear badge and exhaust tip. I also got the black hub caps as well so it's coming together!


https://i.imgur.com/C8S8jTw.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dJ3mUSC.jpg


Recently my speakers decided to be quiet so I've been running around like a headless chicken. I bought some Infinity reference speakers and they sound good but there's no bass. I also installed an amp, unfortunately it's a 175w 4 channel amp so I don't think it's quite big enough to run a sub. I don't really have space for a sub anyway, if I did get one it'd have to be a shallow 8 or 10" to fit behind the smaller rear seat. I'm lost when it comes to speaker stuff, I can install it but the numbers have me confused so if anyone has some suggestions let me know. Trying to stay around $500 or under.
#52. Posted:
002
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Alright well that was interesting... I figured worst case scenario I get a different amp for the sub, so with that in mind I set out to try and find a sub that would fit behind the rear seats which was hard. The closest I found was a custom box that was $100 and put a speaker in it.

I did find the Kicker comp C sub that was a touch bigger (7" on the bottom instead of 6") so I made a mock up box with those dimensions and it fit tightly so I ordered it figuring I could replace that speaker if I didn't like it. I put it in today and it sounds plenty good to me! Only problem was I thought I measured enough to keep the vent in the rear but my measurements were almost 4" off so I either had to take out the vent or try to move the window motor so I got rid of the vent and now I'm in the process of attempting to custom make a new vent. Anyway, it's in there and it as close to the center as I could get it without interfering with my tools or the window motor! As far as powering it I bridged channels 3 and 4 on the amp to run to the sub and it seems like it has plenty of power for my liking.

Now I just have to figure out how to either move the seat forward or get a grill on it so the speaker doesn't touch the rear seat.

https://i.imgur.com/kj06op9.jpg
#53. Posted:
UnrealApp
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Nice sub! I currently have 2 10 inch kickers behind my rear seat powered by a monoblock kicker amp. Also have full skar component speakers all around with a 4 channel skar amp. Kicks ass. I am looking to upgrade to 2 12s behind the seat because the setup I have now no longer bangs enough for my liking.
#54. Posted:
002
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Well I'm on the hunt to get some power back in the truck. I had 4.30 Yukon gears installed in both diffs, now I'm trying to decide between a couple different routes.

Route 1: Odawg S2R intake manifold for better airflow, hope it gives me enough power to be happy, then save money vs the other two options, this would cost about $1,200 for the options I want

Route 2: Skip the intake for now, go with a slightly bigger turbo (KC stage 1.5) which on stock injectors should net 475 hp, or if I upgraded injectors later I could be in the 525 range. This would be $1,600 before injectors.

Route 3: Skip the intake again, but go with a bigger turbo and injectors. This would be a KC stage 2 turbo with Warren 190cc-30% injectors with new spool valves putting me in the 550 hp range, 600 with other mods such as the intake. Just the turbo and injectors would cost $3,600 and I don't think I'd be the one installing injectors so there'd be shop labor on top of that.

I'm mainly in between option 1 and 2 as 3 is a LOT of money to through down and I would probably not use that much power but it sure would be fun lol. I know eventually the stage 2 and injectors is what I'd want to do so what I'm leaning towards is going with the stage 1.5, then later I can go up to a 175cc/30% injector which would max out the stage 1.5 turbo but they would be the recommended injectors for the stage 2. If I needed more power after that I could sell the stage 1.5 and recoup a little cash then buy the stage 2.
#55. Posted:
UnrealApp
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002 wrote Well I'm on the hunt to get some power back in the truck. I had 4.30 Yukon gears installed in both diffs, now I'm trying to decide between a couple different routes.

Route 1: Odawg S2R intake manifold for better airflow, hope it gives me enough power to be happy, then save money vs the other two options, this would cost about $1,200 for the options I want

Route 2: Skip the intake for now, go with a slightly bigger turbo (KC stage 1.5) which on stock injectors should net 475 hp, or if I upgraded injectors later I could be in the 525 range. This would be $1,600 before injectors.

Route 3: Skip the intake again, but go with a bigger turbo and injectors. This would be a KC stage 2 turbo with Warren 190cc-30% injectors with new spool valves putting me in the 550 hp range, 600 with other mods such as the intake. Just the turbo and injectors would cost $3,600 and I don't think I'd be the one installing injectors so there'd be shop labor on top of that.

I'm mainly in between option 1 and 2 as 3 is a LOT of money to through down and I would probably not use that much power but it sure would be fun lol. I know eventually the stage 2 and injectors is what I'd want to do so what I'm leaning towards is going with the stage 1.5, then later I can go up to a 175cc/30% injector which would max out the stage 1.5 turbo but they would be the recommended injectors for the stage 2. If I needed more power after that I could sell the stage 1.5 and recoup a little cash then buy the stage 2.


Was also looking at the Stage 2 with 190s because I still have to tow every once in awhile but want the extra power on top. You could just throw the intake in to improve flow and lower EGTs and see how you like it and then later on, throw a the stage 2 and 190s on later to complement the intake.
#56. Posted:
002
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Yeah I'm not really sure, it's a ton of money to dump into a turbo and injectors, I think I may do the intake first for no other reason than looks lol. It has plenty of power and I know it'll beat a lot of vehicles on the road like my brothers Ram Rebel, but I'd rather beat people by a tractor trailer length instead of a car length lol. It would help out the EGT's like you were saying, that's what limits my fun right now. I can get into the throttle for just a couple seconds before seeing 1400*+. Do you have an intake on your truck?

I did finally get the tint redone today, and tomorrow I'm getting the pillars between the windows blacked out, I'll upload pics when I get the truck back.
#57. Posted:
002
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Here is the finished product. I know, kind of boring on the tint lol but if I'm spending money I want it to be legal. I've wanted to black out the window pillars since my white truck, I'm glad I finally got it done!

https://i.imgur.com/RzRJudT.jpg
#58. Posted:
Reb
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Looks sick, needs some massive wheels imo
#59. Posted:
UnrealApp
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Yeah EGTs are killers for our trucks when we throw some power into them. Engine wise, my truck is pretty much stock besides an Atlas 40 tune. Waiting on saving up to do some big time mods like getting it studded with an IPR coolant filter. Then throw a KC stage 2 with 190/30s and the odawg s3r with BD exhaust manifolds. Seems like a pretty solid build for good power.

EDIT: Also while doing ARP 625s, I will be putting on new oringed KDD heads.
#60. Posted:
002
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Some day I'll get to the engine and do what I actually want done lol, about the only thing the PO did right is the ARP studs, other than that it's kind of a cheaply half built engine in my opinion.

I did finally cover up my nasty steering wheel. It hasn't torn yet but it is really close so instead of spending an insane amount of money on a new steering wheel I decided to try and wrap it in paracord. Didn't turn out too bad, I know the "pattern" will probably annoy me so I'll end up re doing it but for now I just have to burn the 2 ends and be happy lol.

https://i.imgur.com/65c6sX5.jpg
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