#81. Posted:
002
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StoneColdModz wrote Good thing you got the 6.0. The 6.4's suck ass. My buddies 6.4 blew up a few months ago and only had 180,000 miles. Just swapped the engine is an brand new 6.4. Should of bought a Chevy!


Yeah the 6.4's just had a bad design for all the emissions crap like the early (03-04) 6.0's. My money just went further with an older truck than it would've with a newer one lol, I almost bought a 2013 F-350 XL with a 6.7 but for less money I got an 06 King Ranch.
#82. Posted:
StoneColdModz
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002 wrote
StoneColdModz wrote Good thing you got the 6.0. The 6.4's suck ass. My buddies 6.4 blew up a few months ago and only had 180,000 miles. Just swapped the engine is an brand new 6.4. Should of bought a Chevy!


Yeah the 6.4's just had a bad design for all the emissions crap like the early (03-04) 6.0's. My money just went further with an older truck than it would've with a newer one lol, I almost bought a 2013 F-350 XL with a 6.7 but for less money I got an 06 King Ranch.
Yeah, im not a ford guy. Chevy for life.
#83. Posted:
002
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A truck is a truck me lol. I just have more experience and knowledge about Ford (and I like the idea of starting with new platforms in engines instead of just refreshing the same one) so I went with the Ford.
#84. Posted:
002
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I couldn't stand my horrible paint job, it haunts me every time I come home. I see something bad so I fix it and screw up another area. Ended up selling them today for what I paid for them and I have a new set of mirrors coming (not the 08-16, and not the stock mirrors).
#85. Posted:
002
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Mirrors should be in tomorrow. I got my 2.5" coil springs in, so now all I need to do is find a 4" rear block and my lift will be done. This lift is not for off roading or looking good, this lift is literally just to increase payload and towing. If I get a F-350 SRW block (which is 4" instead of the 2" that I have) and an add a leaf I will have an F-350 minus the badging and legalities. I lifted the front because when I lift the rear the 3" the front would look REALLY low.


Before:
http://i.imgur.com/9VIkonN.png

After:
http://i.imgur.com/jVZXx0X.png

http://i.imgur.com/ZyTGKR9.png
http://i.imgur.com/plxTOGY.png
#86. Posted:
002
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The other mirrors I was thinking (F-750 mirrors) I ended up deciding would be WAY too big for the truck so I just got some 2017 style mirrors with the chrome cap.


http://i.imgur.com/e1IW5w7.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/pb3gRmX.png
http://i.imgur.com/H3RYXZp.png
#87. Posted:
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I like the look of the mirrors, how much did they cost you? Im looking to upgrade my shitty oval mirrors.
#88. Posted:
002
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Thanks, they were $255 shipped to my door. You can get them without the chrome cap for $230.

EDIT: These do look a lot better at night, although they do remind me a lot of a Chevy truck headlight...


http://i.imgur.com/lNqUOlL.png
http://i.imgur.com/AOl0gTe.png
http://i.imgur.com/7DZtgJu.png
#89. Posted:
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002 wrote Thanks, they were $255 shipped to my door. You can get them without the chrome cap for $230.

EDIT: These do look a lot better at night, although they do remind me a lot of a Chevy truck headlight...


http://i.imgur.com/lNqUOlL.png
http://i.imgur.com/AOl0gTe.png
http://i.imgur.com/7DZtgJu.png


Yeah those do look pretty insane, I might get a pair. Did they give you trouble to install?
#90. Posted:
002
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UnrealApp wrote
002 wrote Thanks, they were $255 shipped to my door. You can get them without the chrome cap for $230.

EDIT: These do look a lot better at night, although they do remind me a lot of a Chevy truck headlight...


http://i.imgur.com/lNqUOlL.png
http://i.imgur.com/AOl0gTe.png
http://i.imgur.com/7DZtgJu.png


Yeah those do look pretty insane, I might get a pair. Did they give you trouble to install?


No, it's really super easy. All you do is pry up on the top part of your window switch (closest part to the dash), then pop out that little reflector light on the bottom of the door panel. Behind the switches and lights will reveal a 7mm machine screw you need to take out, then your door panel will come off. Before you take it off there's the trim piece right above it you need to take off which will show 2 of the nuts. The other 2 are behind the top and bottom rubber plugs you see in your door (there are 3 plugs you can see when you open the door, you just pull them out). From there it's just unplug the mirror harness and unbolt the mirror using a 11mm socket. I highly recommend getting a strong magnet and leaving the bolts on a couple threads then unthreading them with the magnet. If you drop that nut it is a PITA to get back out. I always do the top one last too as that'll hold the mirror the best so you can still leave it if you absolutely had to. Make sure the window is down too so you can get to the mirror easier. Past that it's just re-install everything. When you put the pigtail for the new mirrors in the door, you will spend FOR EVER getting it in the hole that the other one was. You can just pull it through the hole your door panel slides into (almost straight down from where you put the wire in). I haven't had an issue yet and there are so many clips you could actually cut that one off.

Honestly the hardest part is putting the door panel on. I put line up the bottom first while holding the panel at a 45* angle to the door (make sure door is unlocked), then push the panel to the door, then lift up and over the lock and all the pins should slide right in.

The biggest issue I had was how tight to make them. To me they need to be super tight as they get a lot of force on them, but I already busted a stud in doing that. You cannot replace these studs either. Too loose and it's floppy, too tight and you run the risk of busting a stud or the mirrors won't fold in. Just pay close attention to how tight they were on before and put them on that tight. When using a socket it will actually feel really lose but I guess that's how it's supposed to be.
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