Soldering Iron (often shortened to just Iron): This is the main tool for soldering and basically what makes soldering possible. It is simply a pen style iron that you hold in one hand that allows you to melt solder and therefor make electrical connections. Soldering irons are made out a small variety of metals, but the tip is typically copper with a protective coating of iron. Irons typically operate at around 400 to 800 degrees Fahrenheit


Solder: Solder is the main material when it comes to soldering. It is a mixture of metals that is used as the "glue" between two points/wires/whatever is being connected. There are multiple types of solder that can include various metals, but solder made of tin and lead is typical electrical solder.

Flux: Flux is the complement of solder and is used as a flowing agent. Without flux soldering would be practically impossible. This is because unlike glue when soldering connections together there is actually a chemical reaction occurring between the metals that are being joined and the solder. Flux acts as the catalyst in this reaction and is essential for soldering. It typically comes as a paste, liquid, or liquid in a pen. I strongly recommend using paste flux. Flux pens don't work that well, and I feel that paste flux is easier to work with than liquid. Just apply a small blob of flux to the point, or on both wires if you are soldering two together, so that there is a thin coating of flux on the joint and then solder away. It is pretty hard to go wrong with flux so almost any brand is fine. I actually use Radio Shacks.

Desoldering Pump (also called "solder sucker"): The pump is one of the main (meaning affordable for average consumers) ways to desolder. Whenever solder needs to be removed in order to break a connection by removing a wire or component a pump can be used to "suck" the solder out of the connection.

Desoldering Braid (also called "solder wick"): The braid is the other main way to desolder. Whenever solder needs to be removed in order to break a connection by removing a wire or component soldering braid can be used to pull the solder out of a connection using capillary action.


Wire: I hope that you all know what this is. The main thing to mention with wire is that it comes in different sizes (AWG) and types. The two main types are stranded and solid. Stranded means that when you cut the shielding off the wire is separated in a bunch of little strands that can be twisted together. This makes it each to twist wires together, but also makes it easy for close wires to short. Additionally stranded wire is harder to push around without it bending. Solid means then when you cut the shielding off the wire is one solid piece, which is great for maneuvering and keeping things from shorting. There is a great wire type sold by several brands called "Kynar Wire". It is a type of solid wire that comes in many gauges and has the flexibility of stranded wire. I highly recommend Kynar wire for all of you soldering (at least related to the Xbox 360)


AWG: AWG stands for American Wire Gauge and is a measurement of the gauge or "thickness" of wire. It runs from 0 to 40 in increments of 2 (there is also 00, 000, and 0000) but most commonly 20-30 is used in at home soldering. The numbers run "backwards" as a smaller number means a higher gauge/thickness.

PCB: PCB stands for printed circuit board. They are used in all modern appliances/electronics because they are relatively cheap, save lots of room, and keep things organized. Chances are that you have seen them more than once in your life if you have seen the inside of anything electronic. They are usually the main-board of electronics and there can often be more than one in a device. They are frequently colored green or blue, but sometimes also orange/brown, white, or black. Motherboards are actually PCBs, including the Xbox 360's

QSB: QSB stands for Quick Solder Board. They are usually pretty small and have a few soldering points on the ends and tops of them. They are essentially used for convenience and space preservation by taking the place of a few wires and possibly plugs and connections. QSBs are placed on top of a PCB board (i.e. the Xbox 360 motherboard) in their location of operation and are soldered into place in several points, and then possibly soldered to other things with connections via wire.

Tinning: "Tinning" or "Tinning the tip" is the process of coating the tip of the soldering iron in solder. This process is done multiple times while soldering because it allows much faster transfer of heat to a solder join and protects the tip from oxidation

Heat-Shrink: Heat shrink is plastic tubing that is used to prevent shorts and make connections more rigid. A plastic tub of appropriate size (slightly larger than the wire its going around) is placed over a wire and slid on top of a solder joint. The tubing is then heated which shrinks it so that it stays in place, which covers the exposed metal and secures the connection.

Tip Cleaner: This stuff comes in a little tin container and is very important to tip maintenance. Over time as you use you iron (even with proper maintenance otherwise) it will start to get a little bit dark and not take on solder as well. This is where tip cleaner comes in. You just apply a little bit (possibly a few times) and it cleans and tips the tip for you!


Flux-Off: A great no-clean flux by Chemtronics that I highly recommend. There are other ways to clean off flux, but this spray and done solution works great. It is used to clean off any leftover flux that may remain after a solder joint is made. Make sure you use it anytime you see decently sized brown spots appearing around your solder joints. The solution naturally evaporates quickly but if you want to use the device or go right back to soldering after use you will need to wipe off the liquid with a paper towel. Note that you can easily use ISP alcohol instead.


Specific Information/Important Tips About Some Items:

Soldering Iron: The soldering iron is the most important part of the whole shebang, and it is important that when working on something as "delicate" as the Xbox 360 that you use a quality iron and select the right tip for the job. When selecting an iron you certainly do not want to be conservative with your money. Now, you shouldn't really have to spend more than about 100 dollars for a quality iron, but just make sure you don't try to be cheap and get a crappy wattage set 20 dollar iron. They work for basic jobs but in the long run it's just better to get yourself a good iron. In general you want an iron with different types of replaceable tips. The two brands that I recommend are Hakko and Weller both of which are highly respected by professional companies. I personally use a Hakko FX-888D and with it T-18BL tips:

It is digitally controlled in increments of 1 degree with a range of 100F to 899F, comes with a nice holder that includes a brass cleaning wire and a cleaning sponge, has a wide variety of replacement tips, and has a nice grip on the iron. You can really feel the quality of the whole setup while using it.

There are many different tips that you can use that will work for Xbox 360 modding, and which one you pick out of those is really up to preference. Check the documentation for the iron you use and see what kinds of tips are available for it. The only real requirement for soldering tips relative to the Xbox 360 is that they are thin/small, because using too big a tip is a hassle and is impossible for soldering some very small points. The tip I use has a point diameter of .2mm which I find to be perfect.

Solder: The second most important component to soldering is the solder itself. Just like the iron it is important that you use quality solder, but luckily this isn't as "difficult" as getting a good iron. Solder i really just solder, just like glue is glue. There are special types for specific tasks and different brands and all it is pretty hard to mess it up. My point is that it is somewhat hard to find bad quality solder and other than that rare bad solder no solder manufacturer is really better than another. As long as its done right solder just works.

Now, there is an important difference in the types of solder as certain solders are only to be used for certain jobs. When it comes electrical work there are a few different types that can be used, but for working on the Xbox 360 and doing a large majority of other electrical work you want to use 60/40 Rosin Core solder. What that means is that the solder is composed of 60% tin and 40% lead, and that the core (center) of the solder is made out of rosin that works as a flux. This means that it is easier to work with because it essentially already has flux "built in" to the solder. This doesn't mean that you cannot avoid using flux entirely but it means that you don't have to use flux 100% of the time and overall you will have an easier time completing the job.

The only other three possibilities for electrical work solder are solder with 2% silver, lead free solder, and solder with different ratios of tin to lead (such as 40/60). Silver solder is mainly used in audio work for reasons that I am not fully acquainted with, and lead free solder is technically better for the environment (and less poisonous if inhaled) but most people agree that it literally "sucks" and is a pain to work with. Using solder with different tin to lead ratios wouldn't be a bad thing but 60/40 is pretty much the standard.

Another aspect of solder is the diameter. There are a few different choices when it comes to the diameter but when it comes to working with the Xbox 360 .032" is a good choice, but .05" can be used too (I usually keeps reels of both on hand). Here is a nice comparison of diameter for solder (next to a PIC chip):

Finally when it comes to manufacture choice it is hard to find a company that makes really poor solder. However, there are some well-known companies that people tend to go to for solder. The three that I recommend to you (at least for 60/40 rosin core solder) that I have had good experience with are Kester, Alpha Fry, and somewhat surprisingly, radio shack (despite the fact that some of their other products are mediocre).


Flux: Flux is also a pretty damn important component to soldering because it makes the connection much stronger and keeps the solder nice and clean (instead of a dull weaker grey). Flux should be used a good portion of the time, especially when making a connection that requires the iron to be in contact with the solder for an extended period of time (still not too long but longer than a brief moment; 3-6 seconds) because the longer the solder is heated the more of the rosin flux that is in the solder burns away, which requires more flux to be added. Flux mainly comes in three types which are liquid, paste, and pen. Flux in liquid and paste form are pretty similar. You have a tube or bottle the liquid or paste flux and use a brush to spread a little on the component that is being solder to, though sometimes paste flux will come in a tube from which the flux is supposed to be directly applied.

A third option is a flux pen, which is like a thick marker, but instead of ink it has flux in it. They can be decent but generally flux pens are meh. You generally won't apply enough with a pen or have a hard time applying some to a small point since the tips tend to be large. You are much better off with paste or liquid flux.

Solder Sucker and Desoldering Braid: When it comes to removing solder people usually choose between using one method or the other, but I like to use both. In general, it is best to remove large amounts or the main portion of a solder joint using the sucker and then use the braid afterwards to clean up any pieces left over. At least, that is what I do. Some people manage using just one but I think the mix works best. For desoldering braid I again recommend Chemtronics, and when it comes to a solder sucker you can't really go wrong with one so just look up "Solder Sucker" or "Soldering Pump" on Amazon or the like and just check for good reviews.

Section 4: Related Tools

There are some other tools that really come in handy for doing soldering work (some of which are essential for doing a proper job) so I will be discussing them here.

Multimeter: Having a multimeter is 99% essential and I only didn't include it under previous list because you can solder without it, but doing so is like have an eye poked out. A multimeter is fantastic for the multitude of measurements that you can take with it, but specifically is grand for measuring ohms (resistance). This is because by measuring resistance you can check your connections to make sure they are actually completed before you even power what you are working on. As long as there is no resistance in the line on purpose (i.e. resistors) a multimeter reading of 0 ohms means that a connection is indeed connected! The best type of multimeter you can get is a digital, auto-ranging meter, because you don't have to worry about which unit setting to pick because it does it automatically for you.

Wire Strippers: I also didn't include this in the list of items that were directly for soldering because you can strip wires without wire strippers; however, stripping wires with a knife or scissors SUCKS (especially for very small gauge wires) and trust me I used to do that for a while. A decent bit of time you screw up the wire, cut your fingers, or just waste a bunch of time. Wire strippers make stripping wires a breeze and with a good pair you can save sooooo much time while working.

Strippers come in different types: Automatic and manual. An automatic wire dancer is a self-adjusting, single action tool that strips wires for breakfast! These are by far the best type of strippers because you simply stick in the wire, and pull the handle. Easy as that! They automatically adjust for the wire gauge and work with just one squeeze. The only downside to them is that they are a bit more expensive and it can be really hard to find one that works for smaller gauges (i.e 26-30) and the best I have seen is one that went down to 28AWG but was 90 bucks! In fact, I actually use a manual myself because I work with 28 and 30AWG enough (and was tight on cash so I wasn't gonna buy both) that a manual was needed (and good enough for me). Also there are two styles (actually 3 but one is ridiculously expensive and for professional firms) of automatic strippers.

In my opinion the latter kind tends to work better.

Then there are manual strippers. As long as you get a quality pair these really aren't that bad, and they don't take up much space. These are traditionally in the form of what are called "Croc Wire Strippers", which look like a pair of pliers, but instead of teeth there are holes for stripping different gauges of wires and a part at the tip for crimping wire. Generally you get them in pack of two because the range of AWG that they can strip is too large to fit on just one. The advantage with these is that you can get ones that can strip a very large rage of AWG.

I personally purchased Paladin Tools strippers, but only because they have very good ratings (I don't use them frequently or anything). Any quality pair should do.

Brass Wool/Pad: If you get an iron that doesn't come with one of these it is imperative to have. You will need to clean your tip quiet frequently and it is one of the few things that can properly do so. Using anything else (in times of dire need a wet paper towel bundle can work, but don't use it regularly) is like using a heatgun to reflow your Xbox. It may "work" in the short run, but in the long run you're just damaging your iron. You can get one of these at a home appliances store like Home Depot or Lowes, and I think Radio Shack might even have them.

Hot Glue Gun: A hot glue gun is an excellent piece of equipment to have while soldering. It is quick, fast drying, and strong, but not permanent, which makes it phenomenal for three crucial functions.

First, it is great method for securing connections, which is an important step in quality work. Hot glue can be placed just before or on a joint in between the wire and the PCB (if working with them, i.e. Xbox 360 Modding in which case the PCB is the motherboard) in order to secure the connection. This takes any tension applied to the wire off of the joint itself, and puts it onto the glue instead, which is important because it is easily possible to break a joint by straining the wire. While working on a project with many wires (especially small ones) or reassembling the container for a project (i.e. an Xbox 360 case) it is not too hard for even experienced users to strain a joint and weaken/break it.

Second, hot glue is good for keeping things organized, which is important for soldering overall, and especially important for things like the RGH exploit which requires keeping wires away from certain areas on the motherboard. Using hot glue to keep things organized makes any job easier overall.

Finally, hot glue can be used to prevent shorts. Although heat shrink and electrical tape are usually used for this purpose, hot glue can be used too because it is not conductive. There are some situations in which you will have very small joints very close to each other, or flexible components such as diode/resistor/transistor legs that easily move around and could possible create a short. In these cases, hot glue can be placed in between the joints to not only prevent shorts but strengthen the joints at the same time.

I recommend that whenever you use hot glue that you do not put it on a joint itself (unless you are trying to prevent a short) in case you have to move a wire or rework a connection. If there is ever a point in which you need to put hot glue onto a join itself make ABSOLUTE sure that the connections are solid and that everything is hooked up properly. Removing hot glue isn't too hard if done properly with a fine blade, but every time you have to remove hot glue is another time that you could damage components.

A hot glue gun is pretty basic so just get one that isn't crap :smile:

Box Cutter Knife (or Utility Knife): There are plenty of times while you solder that you may have to cut something, sheer something, etc., which is where a Box Cutter Knife comes in handy. The main ways in which I find myself using mine are removing hot glue, cutting special types of wire (i.e. SATA cables), and when jury rigging things :biggrin: Just like when you are in the wilderness a knife is quite useful, and even if you can't think of why you would use one I recommend having one anyway. Also it is important that you have a stock of replacement blades, and just as it goes for many other things involving blades, don't go using a dull one. I personally use a knife by Husky which is just simply a fold-able box cutter knife (I prefer the fold-able ones because they tend to be more slimline and manageable). Even if it isn't a box cutter knife any type of precision utility blade should do, like an x-acto knife.

Needle-Nose Pliers: Needle-nose pliers come in handy for two reasons. The first reason is that they are good for helping you manage wires/components. They give you great torque for bending wires or component legs, and are useful for holding components or wires in a situation where your hand would need to be too close to where you are making the connection, because you will get burned if you need to hold a wire or component too close to where you're putting the iron. The second reason is for unscrewing stripped screws, which you should be careful to prevent in the first place, but nonetheless it is good to have a way to deal with them


Lighter/Heatgun (or hairdryer): In order to use heat shrink you will need a way to shrink it in which case either of these tools will work. I personally like using a lighter because I feel it is more controlled/directed. You simply place the flame a short distance bellow the heat shrink and move it back and forth evenly and stop once it shrinks. The one instance in which you shouldn't use a lighter is if the heat shrink is very close the PCB (you should try to have any joints in which heat shrink needs to be used before you put anything onto the PCB) in which case you can use a heatgun. You also need to be careful when using a heatgun though because it is less focused which makes it easy to burn the board. Keep it at a decent distance and don't keep it on for too long.

Scissors: Pretty self-explanatory. Good for opening packages and cutting wire

70-91% Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol: This stuff is great for cleaning up points or components. If you are working with older things that are dusty or dirty a quick swipe or two of this with a Q-Tip does wonders to clean it up. You can also use this to clean off extra flux. The higher the percentage the better.

Paper Towels: Again, pretty self-explanatory. They make a nice base to place under what you are working on and are useful for cleaning things up

Screwdrivers: I hope that you know how to use a screwdriver at this point, but I do want to point out that for working on anything Xbox 360 related you will specifically need Torx 8 and 15 screw bits. Torx 9 is helpful for those small black screws that tend to strip easily, and small flathead screwdrivers great for getting the casing open. If you don't have any Torx screwdrivers and need to buy them it is best that you just get a whole set.

Helping Hands: This thing is pretty self-explanatory. It is a just a simple stand with two metal arms that have a strong grip strength and good flexibility. I have one of these because my dad remembered he had one in the garage. The metal arms act as extra "hands" which can hold things for you so you can use your real hands for other things. I don't always use it but it is pretty helpful when it's needed because doing tons of things with your fingers all at once can get pretty complicated. They sometimes come with a magnifying-glass and you can get one easily on Amazon.